- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
Just thought I'd share a little Shop Tip.
I've never been in a workshop that had "too much" lighting.
But you don't solve your lighting problems by going out and just buying more fixtures. There is such a thing as "good lighting" and "bad lighting". Not all light is the same quality.
My advice? Avoid "down lights" anywhere except where you need detail work.
Full-time knifemakers or those with a dedicated shop probably don't have to worry about lighting - may have already solved their lighting needs.
This is directed more toward the part-time maker who might be sharing his space with other functions....or just have crappy lighting in the first place.
Have a look:
The first pic has the lights pointed down; the second pic has the lights pointed up.
It may seem at first that the first setup "has more light". But look at the strong shadows on the equipment (most notably on the KMG, motor and drive). This contrast between dark shadows and bright "hot spots" will make your eyes strain and tire quickly...causing more "oopsies"....
For those who have read Coop's "Light Box" thread...you may already understand the importance of indirect, filtered, reflected light (the same idea applies to lighting your workspace).
For anyone else - in a nutshell....you don't want to point the light right at your work (unless doing close-up, detail work in a controlled area). You want to "flood the room" with light from multiple sources. Let the light bounce off the wall and ceilings. Unless they're painted black :footinmou, you'll get a good reflection that will "wash" your work area with light. That's how the Sun does it, my friends.
So, instead of pointing shop lights down at your work - point them up, and light the ceiling/wall instead. The hot spot will be over your head and your eyes will be less strained.
I think we'd all be surprised how little extra lighting costs...and how much a difference it makes in the shop. Especially the part-timers....those lamps cost $7 at the hardware store - and I get a $3 compact flourescent 13 Watt bulb for them. I have a dozen of these...just love 'em. Even with all of them running, I'm still only using 156 Watts (12x13W) - the same as two 75W bulbs. But I get 10 times the amount of light.
Add another $1 cost per light and you can get "daylight" bulbs that will last just as long, use the same low-wattage, and give you a nicer light (less yellow).
p.s. I'm sure I've left some explanation out - so feel free to ask questions. I deal with lighting issues in my "day job" on a regular basis - and probably take certain things for granted...
I've never been in a workshop that had "too much" lighting.
But you don't solve your lighting problems by going out and just buying more fixtures. There is such a thing as "good lighting" and "bad lighting". Not all light is the same quality.
My advice? Avoid "down lights" anywhere except where you need detail work.
Full-time knifemakers or those with a dedicated shop probably don't have to worry about lighting - may have already solved their lighting needs.
This is directed more toward the part-time maker who might be sharing his space with other functions....or just have crappy lighting in the first place.
Have a look:
The first pic has the lights pointed down; the second pic has the lights pointed up.
It may seem at first that the first setup "has more light". But look at the strong shadows on the equipment (most notably on the KMG, motor and drive). This contrast between dark shadows and bright "hot spots" will make your eyes strain and tire quickly...causing more "oopsies"....
For those who have read Coop's "Light Box" thread...you may already understand the importance of indirect, filtered, reflected light (the same idea applies to lighting your workspace).
For anyone else - in a nutshell....you don't want to point the light right at your work (unless doing close-up, detail work in a controlled area). You want to "flood the room" with light from multiple sources. Let the light bounce off the wall and ceilings. Unless they're painted black :footinmou, you'll get a good reflection that will "wash" your work area with light. That's how the Sun does it, my friends.
So, instead of pointing shop lights down at your work - point them up, and light the ceiling/wall instead. The hot spot will be over your head and your eyes will be less strained.
I think we'd all be surprised how little extra lighting costs...and how much a difference it makes in the shop. Especially the part-timers....those lamps cost $7 at the hardware store - and I get a $3 compact flourescent 13 Watt bulb for them. I have a dozen of these...just love 'em. Even with all of them running, I'm still only using 156 Watts (12x13W) - the same as two 75W bulbs. But I get 10 times the amount of light.
Add another $1 cost per light and you can get "daylight" bulbs that will last just as long, use the same low-wattage, and give you a nicer light (less yellow).
p.s. I'm sure I've left some explanation out - so feel free to ask questions. I deal with lighting issues in my "day job" on a regular basis - and probably take certain things for granted...
)
