Quality of schrade in the 80's ?

Hickory n steel

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What can you guys tell me about the quality of schrade pocketknives from the 80's ? Because I have a schrade OLD TIMER 33OT middleman jack that my grandpa sent my dad in the 80's during his 12yrs in the army and my dad never used it ( just kept it in its box in the safe ), but the clip blade is extremely loose and neither blade was sharp. I wouldn't mind doing what was meant to be done with it ( put it in my pocket ) but it's just too loose. Do you guys know if It can be fixed ? I don't see any pins through the bolster, so I'm assuming it uses a swinden lock.
 
It's nice that you have your dad's old knife. The 1095 blade steel should take screaming sharp edge if properly sharpened. It's best to avoid prying with any knife but both the Swinden key construction and peened pin construction can loosen up if a knife is used for prying. You can give other knives a squeeze in a vise to tighten them up. The difficulty of repairing a loose blade is a downside with Swinden key construction. You could pay to have someone fix it.... most likely, they'll use a through pin... but it may be less expensive to retire the knife to desk duty and to pick up another 1980s vintage Old Timer.
 
I just wish I had a knife that belonged to my Father and Grandfather. No price is too much to get it fixed. You'd be the first in three generations to get to use the knife.
 
I just wish I had a knife that belonged to my Father and Grandfather. No price is too much to get it fixed. You'd be the first in three generations to get to use the knife.

It was actually bought for my dad, but that would be nice. it may not mean as much as you'd think because my dad gives me everything, he pretty much used to find some old thing to give me every other day ( so it's more the issue of liking the knife and wanting to use it ) I've got a 34OT stockman from around '04 that I use all the time on wood, but the sheep's foot ( the one I use the most has no snap left in it at all, and it was never perfectly straight ) not to mention that I was dumb when I was a kid and sanded the rust ( which I stupidly let form on the Knife )off of it and it looks like crap. By the way the old 33OT cv blades ( we're they always like this ? ) I'll have to post a picture of it in a minute. ( it was never used, but my dad never wiped it off after handling either so it has some patina nice )
 
It was actually bought for my dad, but that would be nice. it may not mean as much as you'd think because my dad gives me everything, he pretty much used to find some old thing to give me every other day ( so it's more the issue of liking the knife and wanting to use it ) I've got a 34OT stockman from around '04 that I use all the time on wood, but the sheep's foot ( the one I use the most has no snap left in it at all, and it was never perfectly straight ) not to mention that I was dumb when I was a kid and sanded the rust ( which I stupidly let form on the Knife )off of it and it looks like crap. By the way the old 33OT cv blades ( we're they always like this ? ) I'll have to post a picture of it in a minute. ( it was never used, but my dad never wiped it off after handling either so it has some patina nice )

Schrade used AISI 1095HC. In their final years before they closed, they did substitute with stainless (440A and 420HC) for some knives even though the packaging still indicated that the steel was carbon steel.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/378164-Schrade-Blade-Steels

Their 1095 was really nice. It easily took a crazy sharp edge. There are always exceptions but the fit and finish was pretty good, especially for the price. Here are some comparison photos of an Old Timer and a GEC that cost 5x as much. Both have 1095 steel.


 
So do you guys know how the swinden key even keeps the blades tight ?( obviously I know how they keep the blade in )


Here it is
 
Old Timer built a good knife, I always considered them a working mans knife. Quality was good but maybe not as consistent as Camillus. Old Timers 1095 was as good as any.
Schrade/Old Timer could service the swinden Key but but with them gone you need to find someone who can drill it for a pin. There's probably some here on the forum who could do it.

Sorry there's no way I could describe exactly how the swinden works.

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If I knew what size of brass rod to get, I'm sure I could do it myself. I also noticed that the pen blade doesn't open flush with the back spring, which also kinda sucks.
 
I've split open 5 now and re-handled or changed them in some way. The first had issues when I started and it had issues when I finished. Not bad for a first effort is the best you could say about it. I'm glad it wasn't a knife I cared about.
The second wasn't bad, handle pins were getting better but not right. Bolster pin was much better.
I got the forth one where I wanted it.
I'm working with existing holes and wouldn't even attempt to drill new bolster holes.

What I'm saying is it's not as easy as it appears in the tutorials. If you haven't done it before I would ask some of the folks here on the forum for someone who does that kind of work. There's some good work done here.

I'm doing it for fun but if I just had one sentimental knife to redo it wouldn't have cost any more to get someone else to do it right the first time.

The fifth and last is in progress and I need a tapered reamer before I can proceed with it.
 
Yes I did it with a older knife and it still tight. SCHRADE IMO was in its heyday during 1980's
 
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