Queen Canoe: 1095 vs D2

[Starfish]

Hi all,

While perusing Cumberland Knife Works last night, I noticed that they have Queen Canoe patterns in 1095 (search the site for Queen Canoe 1095). I also noticed that the pattern in 1095 steel is about $17 more expensive than the pattern in D2 steel. I thought that the D2 versions would be more expensive, but perhaps the 1095 versions are a special run?

What's the story on the 1095 version, and which would you prefer?

Matthew

 

[JD Mandrell]

They are bringing out a few patterns in 1095, not sure how many in each run, I like both steels, but D2 ROCKS!

 

[Ryan8]

I saw those as well. They're limited to 100 in each material which could explain it. 1095 also doesn't seem to be a common material for Queen except when they make knives for others.

 

[cattleking]

1095 is the only steel to buy for any knife. Period the end.

 

[Ryan8]

I could've sworn that Case CV (0170-6) was also acceptable. But who really wants steels that outperform 1095 anyway? Oh wait, that's not possible. Those metallurgists LIE!

 

[Bobwhite]

I'd go 1095.

 

[cattleking]

I could've sworn that Case CV (0170-6) was also acceptable. But who really wants steels that outperform 1095 anyway? Oh wait, that's not possible. Those metallurgists LIE!

Cv is also acceptable-- It is 1095. No steel outperforms 1095.

 

[JD Mandrell]

Cv is also acceptable-- It is 1095. No steel outperforms 1095.

Depends on how you define "outperforms".

1095 heat treated right is great, but how does if hold an edge against D2?

I can tell you from my use, nowhere near as well.

 

[Ryan8]

Cv is also acceptable-- It is 1095.

It's actually 0170-6, also known as 50100-B which is a different steel.

0170-6 is .93%C .43%Mn .24%Si .60%Cr .21%V .03%Ni .16%Cu from what I've found on the web.

It's a very good steel and well-balanced.

No steel outperforms 1095.

I'm not going to flame you for this, but you're making a rather bold statement here. Can you define what you consider performance?

I haven't seen any hard, direct comparisons but 0170-6 should hold an edge longer than 1095 (assuming good heat treatments on both) and resist corrosion better.

 

[Starfish]

Well - before I start to look trollish, I better pop back in here so that you don't think I'm just starting a metallurgical flame war and running for cover

Aside from the 1095 vs. D2 issue, I find that the 1095 series are issued in jigged bone, which I greatly prefer to the jigged black cherry/carved stag bone of the regular series. The cocobola is eye-pleasing, but I just have a thing for nice, jigged bone.

Wait...I just started another one, didn't I?

For those who have used and sharpened both 1095 and D2, what can you tell me about the relative merits/weaknesses of both? I suspect that D2 will hold an edge longer, but be less resistant to chipping. And that's where my metallurgical understanding ends....

Thanks,

Matthew

 

[JD Mandrell]

For those who have used and sharpened both 1095 and D2, what can you tell me about the relative merits/weaknesses of both? I suspect that D2 will hold an edge longer, but be less resistant to chipping. And that's where my metallurgical understanding ends....

You pretty much nailed it there in my experience. D2 will hold an edge like crazy, but is more brittle, but I'm not sure if it's enough to matter. I can realte what happened with my Queen Mountain Man in D2, I was hacking through some maple saplings about 1 inch in diameter, accidently cut all the way through one and hit a cinder block with the edge of the blade, not damage at all. BUT I did try to pry out a sliver of wood from a peice of dried maple and the last 1/8th inch of the blade broke off. Queen replaced it free, but since then I am always carefull not to repeat that move.

 

[MarkPinTx]

With 1095 vs. D2, you have the dilemma of ease of sharpening and sharpenability vs. edge holding. D2 will hold an edge longer, but 1095 is much easier to sharpen and maintain (edge-wise: stropping will bring it right back until a certain point, at which a few strokes on a fine stone or rod will get it right back) and gets sharper (at least comparing Queen D2, which seems to be highly granular and will not get a polished edge in any reasonable amount of time). Then there's the issue of stain resistance.

 

[cpirtle]

Depends on how you define "outperforms".

You're wasting your breath with Cattleking. In all of his 20+ posts he either bashes anything stainless or touts high carbon and is never willing to back up his statements or even engage in healty debate about them, believe me I've tried.

I think both 1095 and D2 have their merits but of the two I would choose 1095. Not only because I like it better in most cases but the jig bone is a major plus in my book.

I tend to shy away from D2 from any source other than Bob Dozier, every oter time I've used D2 it was too brittle for my taste.

 

[JD Mandrell]

You're wasting your breath with Cattleking. In all of his 20+ posts he either bashes anything stainless or touts high carbon and is never willing to back up his statements or even engage in healty debate about them, believe me I've tried..

Yeah, I kinda saw that. Another "newbie of the week" that's suddenly the board "expert" after 23 posts.

 

[Doug C]

1095 is the only steel to buy for any knife. Period the end.

cattleking, I'm with ya' to a certain point.I love 1095 probably as much as you,maybe not.It's been called the steel that made America as great as it is.Many,Bladesmiths use it almost exclusively,it's cheap and with the proper heat treat,very,very good.The hamons are works of art,undisputably.Don't limit yourself though.On second thought,maybe some folks can't or don't like sharpening their knives when they lose a scary sharp edge.I do.I like D2 also but once I chipped an edge,probably my fault.Ya' don't want to get these guys riled up!Engage them in diatribe.Everyone may learn something.Hopefully,me too.

 

[Warriorsociologist]

Well, here's my take. The Queen canoe is my favorite slip-joint pattern. I have 2 D2 Canoes and I just got one of the 1095's in from CKW. Having this new knife in hand reaffirms why this is my favorite pattern. First of all, I love how thin this single-spring pattern is. Also, I LOVE the fact that the 1095 series have the plain "acorn" shields and no billboards on their blades. In fact, one of the reasons the D2 winterbottom series is generally my favorite ('till now) is because I prefer the general lack of lettering, etching, etc. Anyway, I can also report that that blades on the 1095 are ever-so-thinner than my D2 blades (sorry I can't be sure how much though since my micrometer is packed away pending my upcoming move, but both blades are visibly thinner). Since both blades in this pattern are quite stout to begin with, this is welcome and will surely make it an even better cutter. So, my vote is to get a D2 winterbottom and one (or all 4) of the 1095 ones. I am going to order 1-2 more in different colors as soon as I am done typing this....and then I am going to fire off an email asking Queen to PLEASE make a 2-blade "Moose" Railsplitter with 1095 & Sambar stag.

 

[brownshoe]

For Queen, their D2 is pretty hard and a real pain to reprofile. This can be a problem because queen put on some thick edges. Once you got the profile it stays, but it's hard to get it shaving sharp. Their 1095 takes a good quick edge and holds it reasonably, and is easier to reprofile. Their D2 doesn't stain very well, will get a mild patina, but is more prone to pitting if abused than 1095, which quickly gets a patina and will readily stain. So take your pick, for me I'd go with 1095 for a user, easier to sharpen. If it was more of a pocket queen, I'd got with D2 because it'd look pretty longer.

 

[Yosemite Sam]

For Queen, their D2 is pretty hard and a real pain to reprofile. This can be a problem because queen put on some thick edges.

I can certainly back that up. I spent about 2 hours trying to put an edge that would actually cut something on my new Queen D2 Toothpick last night, and it still isn't there. Freehanding with a diamond hone will raise a burr, but trying to get a fine edge with the Sharpmaker (medium, then fine hones) just seems to make it duller. I have a stropping block on the way, maybe that'll help...

-- Sam

 

[rifon2]

Aside from the 1095 vs. D2 issue, I find that the 1095 series are issued in jigged bone, which I greatly prefer to the jigged black cherry/carved stag bone of the regular series. The cocobola is eye-pleasing, but I just have a thing for nice, jigged bone.

Definitely!

 

[rifon2]

...1095...It's been called the steel that made America as great as it is.

Hadn't heard that before! Very interesting.

(P.S. with apologies for editing your post)