Quenching 0-1

P

Petie

Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
62
I'm out of heat treat paint and was wondering if 0-1 can be quenched in the foil envelope or if it should be removed first.
 
I have zero knowledge on this subject, and am not trying to be a jerk, but have you checked out this... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639019 ...sticky at the top? Seems to me that the foil would reduce the ability of direct conductive cooling after vapor phase. I could easily be wrong, but I am still trying to make sense of the article by reading it almost weekly!


-Xander

Hopefully this will bump this thread so someone with more knowledge (Stacy or Kevin) can chime in.
 
Petie, if it were me, I'd probably avoid the foil envelope for O1. It can be dangerous and difficult to try and cut the foil open and then quench the blade, and the envelope itself will insulate the blade somewhat if you quench the entire packet. Now O1 is a pretty deep hardening steel, so it MAY work, but I've never tried it.

Anyway, I haven't tried the anti-scale compounds out there. When I was working with more O1, I always just left a bit more on the blade to grind after heat treatment and did my soak without protection. Then I finish ground the blade which removed any decarb and was good to go.

--nathan
 
Petie said:
I'm out of heat treat paint and was wondering if 0-1 can be quenched in the foil envelope or if it should be removed first.
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Years ago I did try quenching a blade while it was still in the envelope and it did not work. You'll never get the blade out of the envelope quick enough to get a good quench. I always leave my blades fatter before I heat treat them and do my finish grinding afterwards.
 
I tried foil and plate quenching some 1/16 O1 for a customer a while back it was a fail. Something like RHC 52 as queched. You may well find if you are using a kiln that O1 does just fine without any protection. I would not try that with a torch - and I don't have the experience to comment on forge.

Rob!
 
Thanks guys. What you said is what I was afraid. I left enough on them that I'll have plenty to finish grind when I'm done. I'm using a gas fired furnace. That's why I wanted some decarb protection. I'm having a hard time justifying a $150 5 gallon bucket of AO Smith paint. My grand kids will be using the stuff I'll have so much of it. 2 quarts lasted me about 40 knives.
 
Petie, I use O-1 exclusively and I use Brownell's Anti Scale Coating it's $15 for a quart size jar. It works like a charm! It's very good stuff!
 
Raymond Richard said:
You'll never get the blade out of the envelope quick enough to get a good quench. I always leave my blades fatter before I heat treat them and do my finish grinding afterwards.
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I'm with Big Boy. Leave 'em a tiny bit fat, then (with great care) grind to what you want.

Robert
 
I left plenty of meat on them so I could finish grind after heat treat just in case the foil wouldn't work. I've got some of the brownells coating and used it on my last knives because I ran out of the A O Smith. I must not have done something right cause they looked like I would if I would have not used anything. I'm open to any knid of advice on using it.
 
PocketEdge said:
Petie, I use O-1 exclusively and I use Brownell's Anti Scale Coating it's $15 for a quart size jar. It works like a charm! It's very good stuff!
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Me too. PBC is fantastic for parts you have finished already and simply cant re-grind like gun parts and slip joint drilled parts as well as big ol blades.
 
Petie said:
I left plenty of meat on them so I could finish grind after heat treat just in case the foil wouldn't work. I've got some of the brownells coating and used it on my last knives because I ran out of the A O Smith. I must not have done something right cause they looked like I would if I would have not used anything. I'm open to any knid of advice on using it.
Click to expand...

Preheat the parts to 700-800 deg and coat them completely. If it doesnt melt to black it needs another heat and re-coat. It must be covered completely before ramping to austinizing temp. The directions say to drag the part in it at 500 deg but that doesnt work.

Hot water will dissolve any remaining PBC before tempering.
 
Brownell's ATP just paints on. No preheat. I use two coats on 01, comes out great. One jar lasts a long time.
 
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