quenching 1080 question

T

Terry_Dodson

Joined
Jul 10, 2002
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I saw a post somewhere that someone said they profile out the shape of the blade then do the heat treating (normalizing, quenching, then tempering), then keeping the blade cool grind in the bevelsand shape it. My question is on 1080 steel that is 3/16" thick by 1" wide (sharp part of blade will be 8.5"), if i profiled a blade shape, normalized it 3 times, clay coated it, then heated to non-magnetic and quenched it in water (or oil) ( i have cracked 2 long clay coated blades quenching in water, point first into a pipe of water, too long for my normal oil over water in the ammo box quench), then grind in the bevels and shape it, can i still get a nice hamon/temper/transition line or is 1080 too shallow hardening for that?
 
Terry, For one thing, dont quench in a small pipe. I've had hot oil comeshooting out of a small pipe like a gusher. This was with a long , large lade. you may be okay with something small. The more volume you use , the better.

Cant answer about profile bladesmithing.
 
Just quench it like any other blade.

1080 will harden without problems.

The specs for 1080 and 1084 overlap. So many times people have used 1080 that they thought was 1084 and vice versa.

Not being able to get it hard is a placebo effect.

Hardening and then grinding a 3/16" thick blade is a lot of unneccessary work.

Just my $0.02 :D
-Nick-

http://www.wheelerknives.com
 
Not being able to get it hard is a placebo effect.
Click to expand...

Tell that to Pf!zer.
logo.gif
 
NickWheeler said:
Not being able to get it hard is a placebo effect.

Perhaps that may simply mean you have up to 36 hours to quench?? ;)
Click to expand...
 
To clarify the clinical terms here:
Placebo= being able to get it hard despite a physical reason that would prevent this from happening.

Nocebo= not being able to get it hard, but without any real physical reason to not be able to do so.

Fitzo, that's a rare, but serious, side effect and you should call your doctor immediately should your... hardness... last longer than 12 hours. ;)
 
"Fitzo, that's a rare, but serious, side effect and you should call your doctor immediately should your... hardness... last longer than 12 hours. "

Okay guys , we've had our fun. We need to quit hijacking Terrys post.......


Right after this :)

A comedian said " If it's still hard after 4 hours, I'm not calling a doc...I'm calling a hooker"

Hijack off , Sorry bout that Terry.
__________________
 
Terry,
I use most of the 10 series steels and clay harden all of them. I enjoy making the big blades 8 and 10 inch that you speak of. I profile, do the distal taper then finish up all the soft work around the ricasso and the guard shoulders. Before I
start the plunge cuts, I try to decide how much material I will leave at the cutting edge so the odds of it warping will be acceptable when I harden it. Wide tipped blades warp a whole lot less than the long pointed ones so they can be thinned at the edge more. This is a 12inch blade. I will harden it at this stage of the grinding and figure I have good odds it will not warp. You will get that hamon
you are looking for in the 10 series steels and not be gambleing to much. Fred
By the way, the doctor doesn't know crap about hardening. He said call the girl friend. duh? :confused:
 

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haha, you guys are funny. :D

so on a 3/16" thick pice of 1080, if i quench it at full thickness the hardening (to form the hamon) will go all the way thru?
 
My God you are a bonehead Terry,


Just friggin try it.

What the heck have you been doing the last 3 years. Planning to make a knife? :D
 
:D

waitin fur you to show me how to do it at Trackrock next weekend :D

i was hoping to have a rope cuttin knife this time, but i cracked the blades on the last 2 :grumpy: but i wanted a nice hamon on it since after Trackrock it will be going to a friend of my wife, and he likes the hamon on some of the others i did. i just wasnt sure how deep the hardening would go since the 10xx steel is supposed to be shallow hardening. guess i will just have to try it :rolleyes:
 
I believe the shallower hardening the steel the more pronounced hamon you can achieve. I think Kevin Cashen said that somewhere.

~Matthew
 
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