queniching without warp

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willy m

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Nov 27, 2007
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im trying to quench a paring a paring knife,and i have a quest. i read in an earlier post you can you attach a piece of metal on either side and it will prevent it will prevent it from warping. my question is the piece of steel im using for the blade. can i work the blade tapers before i clamp them or will it be able to warp because of the taper providing a gap on the bottom half of the two clamped pieces?
 
Questions,
Integral or flat blank?
What steel? oil or air hardening.
Consider plate quenching if air hardening.
If oil "I" try to do minor straightening by hand during the last part of cooling in the oil. When the blade is about 400 degs. You only have a few seconds to do this or risk breaking the blade. I broke one last week because I was frustrated and lost the small window to straighten.
Bevels would not have a lot of effect on Plate quenching
 
put it in the kiln edge up in a rack, let it come completely up to temperature and soak for a little while, then straight into the oil point first and completely submerged, you should not have problems with warping on a small knife if you do this, I have not had a blade warp in over 15 years doing it this way

-Page
 
Read up on heat treating O1. It needs to soak for a time at critical and maintaing it at critical is difficult for us beginners without temperature regulation. I made a few from O1 a few weeks ago and either didn't soak long enough or get them hot enough or got them too hot, blades wouldn't fully harden and warped badly after a couple of attempts. I'm sticking with 1084 for now.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/581032-Heat-treating-01-tool-steel.....-help
 
On this forum somewhere is a WIP on a straightening jig Karl Anderson made, It works. Im pretty sure you can find it if you search for it in the search box, I tried it once and worked great, Hope this helps alittle,Charlie
 
willy m said:
im trying to quench a paring a paring knife,and i have a quest. i read in an earlier post you can you attach a piece of metal on either side and it will prevent it will prevent it from warping. my question is the piece of steel im using for the blade. can i work the blade tapers before i clamp them or will it be able to warp because of the taper providing a gap on the bottom half of the two clamped pieces?
Click to expand...

I believe you may be referring to "straightening during the temper," which I believe was posted by Rick Marchand. It works very well. You clamp the metal after the quench during the tempering cycle.
 
Watch Wally Hayes master bladesmiths video on "Home Shop Knifemaking". He makes 2 knives from 01 and shows how to heat treat them in a small propane forge. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srF3xOmnMt0 you might be able rent a copy here http://smartflix.com/store/video/66/Home-Workshop-Knifemaking

I have made several knives from O1 and heat treated at home. I bring up the heat slowly and monitor when it comes to critical with a magnet. When it is at critical take note of the color of the blade and keep it at the color by adjusting heat and moving the blade if needed. As you watch that color have your timer set for the desired soak time. When time is up take it to quench and then temper it a couple of times.

Bo Randall heat treated 01 for decades in a forge and we all know he made great blades and still does.
 
Ive had good luck with 01 and my propane forge also.Id like to try coating the blade like in the vid.Quench line would be cool!
 
i want to build a hi-temp thermometer,but dont know what pieces i need,and how they go to together. can i get the parts from radio shack, i believe i read that on here somewhere.
 
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