Question about a hammer.

dsgibbs1

dsgibbs1

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
325
I have seen recently, forging hammers where the handle is more towards the rear of the head. Can one purchase these types from a vendor? If so, do y'all know of a source? I have been using Peddinghaus hammers. I like them just fine. I just wanted to try one of the above mentioned hammers. Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
DSG
 
Usaknifemaker carries them under Japanese style hammers I believe. I am new to forging so I have never tried them. I did however just order some peddinghaus hammers.
 
After the post I went searching on Google. I was not sure what they were called. Now I know them as Japanese Style forging hammers. I then went to USAknifemakers. They are out of stock. Thanks for the reply. The search continues.
 
I have one of Glen Stollmeyer's Japanese style bladesmith hammers.......It's become my favorite.
Try a search for GS Tongs...
 
Russ Andrews said:
I have one of Glen Stollmeyer's Japanese style bladesmith hammers.......It's become my favorite.
Try a search for GS Tongs...
Click to expand...

I had talked a little bit with him on that hammer.. You like it. Was it shipped out pretty fast ? I was also looking at his tongs . Did you have to do much to it as far a dressing it to your liking or was it good out of the box.
 
I got mine a few years ago....before he moved. I don't remember much of
a wait, and it was ready to work when it arived.
Mine was right at 2 lbs, per my request. I'll eventually order the larger one too.
 
The "Dog Head" or Japanese style hammer has all the weight forward of the handle for control. They are very good for drawing bevels and edge shaping. Sam Salvati makes a good one. Most forging suppliers sell them, too.

The better ones have a slight downward angle to the head compared to the handle...about 15°. This helps the face strike flush when drawing bevels.

I like a 1Kg hammer in this type.
 
I had one of the Japanese style hammers, gave it to Jason Knight.... just dint like it as much as the Euro/English patterns.
 
I haven't liked them as much as some folks, but maybe I just never tried a really good one... ?

They are known by other names, which can help your search to find one, especially at flea markets and such. Ask a 80 year old white guy about a Japanese forging hammer and he's most likely going to look at you real funny. Ask him if he has a "dog head hammer" or a "sawyer's hammer" or a "saw filer's hammer" and he will probably have one or know someone that does.

Example--- My Gramma just turned 90, and her family owned/operated a sawmill for more than half of her life. She doesn't know what a Japanese forging hammer is, but she could tell you exactly what a saw filer's hammer is. ;) :)

Or just buy one from Sam or Glen and be done with it. ;) :)
 
For all around versatility, a Hoffi style hammer is probably the best, IMHO. It will do most all forging tasks with great control.

The Japanese hammer requires that the arm, hammer, anvil, and blade stock be positioned exactly right to get the best control. The Japanese forge at different heights than many Western smiths do. Some forge while sitting in a hole next to an anvil places on the floor. A Japanese anvil is also more of a square shape than the standard long things we use with a bick sticking out (horn). Some are only 4"X4" on the top. I find that using a Dog's head hammer works well for me when I am sitting on a stool at the anvil ( which makes the anvil seem "high").
 
I agree with Nick on this one. I don't personally like, or find the Japanese style hammers that versatile. I liked the idea, bought one, made a few, in the end, it didn't make sense for me.


My "never leave home without em" hammer combo is a 4lb "Brazael style" Rounding Hammer (most dies of any hammer shape), and a French "Opposites Planishing Hammer" which is basically a thick straight and cross mildly crowned peen hammer. I approach the anvil in the traditional smith's manner, not the farrier's style, so I engage the work at 90 degrees to the anvil edges, and the straight peen of the opposites hammer is perfect for aggressive drawing or asymmetrical work where the squash ball or the fullering faces of the rounding hammer are too big.


Here's a link to the opposites hammer: https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/pa...Product/Hammers/263_Opposite_Peen_Hammer.xml/

And a quick google search for "Brazael Hammer" or check Brian Brazael's FB page for info on them. Or I'll post a pic of one of mine if you like.
 
Thanks for the information. I was thinking of ergonomics. With more weight forward, the amount of force needed would be lessened. I don't have a real need for one. I just wanted to try it and see if the amount of control is any different. Take my Peddinghaus hammer. If I am right, it has a 55/45 weight forward ratio. With the handle being the dividing line. I can control the steel pretty good. My thoughts were, a hammer with a 80/20 ratio, would allow more force to be transferred to the steel along the chosen path. I will continue looking around. If I find one at a show or flea market, I will pick it up. That way if I do not like it. No big deal.
Thanks again for all the information
DSG
 
I personally don't like the Japanese style "dog-head" hammers. My favorite style is a 4 1/2 pound antique straight pein, but to the folks who love them, Sam's seem to rock

-Page
 
As to Cutler's hammers or offset hammers, They are not very versatile! They are a specialized hammer, for specialized work. When something is often named for a specific trade, then it's really out of place to expect it to do other things. if you are well versed in using many hammer styles it can be adapted to do ALOT of work outside of beveling (beveling as in edges, tangs, tapers, points) but an amateur will find it frustrating trying to get a specific hammer to do many things.

It's not that the amount of force needed is less, it's that the amount of force put in is used in a different way. it is not rocket science, weird stances and other proper positioning are not required. It is simple as, the hammer works in a linear fashion (as all hammers do really), align that linear stroke in the direction you want the metal to move which for bevels is pretty much 90 degrees hammer to blade, and lightly adjust accordingly.

bladsmth said:
For all around versatility, a Hoffi style hammer is probably the best, IMHO. It will do most all forging tasks with great control.
Click to expand...

Quite a blanket statement, and not very true IMO. I have seen fewer actual professionals use hofi's then a cross peen of every other design. I gave my hofi a chance also, 2 years, and I found myself coming back to a regular handle and head length cross peen. Often the loudest speakers seem the majority (IE HOFI) but are usually the minority.

Cool your Grandma was a saw tuner Nick! any of those tools left from that business?

thanks for the plugs fellas! Back to business soon!!!
 
I can honestly say that i use my various cutler/doghead head hammers for all my forging.

These are some 1 1/2 pound one i made
2013-01-24+14.56.46.jpg


this is my personal 2 1/2 pounder
2013-01-31+16.01.52.jpg


I did have an old fisher 4# that got stolen this past january, along with my first 2 pounder i made. Working on a 7# now.

And these hammers may not be for everybody but with a little bit of of work i think its a great style hammer to add to the repertoire. The #1 rule for using this hammer is to not fight it, let the forward mass do the work, and you just guide it.

i have to say im a little biased it's my favorite style hammer.:D
 
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