Question about Anvil

T

Tristan76

Joined
Jan 28, 2021
Messages
10
Hello,
My brother has obtained a nice anvil and wanted to see if you guys had any extra knowledge about it. I just find the history fascinating and wanted to learn more.

This one is right around 100 pounds. Has a raised eagle holding an anchor in its talents on the side. I’m assuming it’s a Fisher but couldn’t determine when it was produced. Has a 50 stamped as well.


Thanks!
 
It sounds like a Fisher based on the logo. Are you able to post pictures of it?

Fisher anvils are fairly unique in that they use cast iron under a hardened steel plate, unlike many others that used wrought iron under a hardened plate, or cast steel. This makes them much quieter, with a solid "thunk" rather than the high-pitched ring of other anvils. Unlike many other anvils using cast iron, they are high quality and well built.

The most important thing to remember is that you should never try to weld, grind, or mill your anvil to repair or flatten it. Some light grinding to radius the edges or soften a chipped spot is ok, hitting the surface lightly with a wire wheel or sanding disk to remove some rust should be fine, but don't attempt any significant corrections. The hardened steel face is only so thick, and whatever you remove from it can never be put back. Welding will ruin the heat treatment of the face, and is nearly impossible to fix without a lot of planning and/or an elaborate setup.
 
Ho
Curse The Sky said:
It sounds like a Fisher based on the logo. Are you able to post pictures of it?

Fisher anvils are fairly unique in that they use cast iron under a hardened steel plate, unlike many others that used wrought iron under a hardened plate, or cast steel. This makes them much quieter, with a solid "thunk" rather than the high-pitched ring of other anvils. Unlike many other anvils using cast iron, they are high quality and well built.

The most important thing to remember is that you should never try to weld, grind, or mill your anvil to repair or flatten it. Some light grinding to radius the edges or soften a chipped spot is ok, hitting the surface lightly with a wire wheel or sanding disk to remove some rust should be fine, but don't attempt any significant corrections. The hardened steel face is only so thick, and whatever you remove from it can never be put back. Welding will ruin the heat treatment of the face, and is nearly impossible to fix without a lot of planning and/or an elaborate setup.
Click to expand...
How thick are the top plates typically?
I’m thinking they must be at least 3/8” thick
I milled the top face of mine with a skim cut to take out all the depressions and get it flatter. I haven’t experienced any problems.
Harbeer
 
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