Question about balanceing knives.

Yvsa

Yvsa

Joined
May 18, 1999
Messages
15,395
:
I saw this thread on the general forum and got to wondering just how balance may be designed into a new or old knife design.
It's something I had never thought about before and felt like it might be a good question.

So, can balance be designed into a new or old knife design before it's
made?
And if so how does one go about it?

Thanks.
smile.gif


http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum64/HTML/001631.html


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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.



[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 01-24-2001).]
 
You are right. That is an interesting thread. You are also right that, from our point of view, they've only begun the question. Blade balance come from blade shape, tang type, taper, guard position, lightening holes, Mayo holes, handle material, handle profile, pins and heaven knows what else.

The question for us, as you pointed out, would be 'how[/i'] do you balance a blade? Something as simple as a thong hole could move that balance point.

Rob!

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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives

[This message has been edited by Rob! (edited 01-24-2001).]
 
I work very hard at balance, but it's an experiential thing, rather than something I calculate. I do deep hollow grinds so my blades are light. I offset that by tapering the tang, the amount of taper depends on the length of the blade. Some handle materials like Micarta are heavy, so you have to remove more tang to compensate. Bolsters tend to be a little forward of the ideal balance point so their size also influences tang taper. If the blade is very long, I tend to enlarge the pommel to put more weight at the rear of the tang. On most knives under 8" I can pretty reliably get the balance point to within 1/2" of the forefinger, without having to do anything beyond tapering the tang. Beyond that I enlarge the pommel, and just make the whole thing as light as I can. On blades up to 12" I can usually keep the balance point behind the front of the bolster guard.

Clearly, the thickness of the steel you use dramatically influences the whole equation. I rarely use anything thicker than 3/16" so that's the basis of the above. On blades under 4", I use 1/8" steel and follow the same general approach. Depending on the knife my tangs taper anywhere from very little to paper thin at the rear. I find it very difficult to balance any knife using 1/4" steel, but that's just my experience.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
The New Tom & Jerry Show
 
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