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Question about Buck 110 warranty

Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Messages
5
I recently bought a new Buck 110 on eBay it is the Cabela's Alaskan Guide. Unfortunately when it arrived in the mail and I examined it I found that it does not snap shut properly. It will fully close then bounce open a little and stay like that. If it was working properly it should snap all the way shut and the point should stay inside the body of the knife.

I'm wondering if this would be fixed under the warranty? Also I live in Australia does that affect whether Buck would pay for postage to mail it back if I send it to the address for repair on their website at my own expense?

I think the knife not closing properly makes it a bit unsafe for example if someone went to use it and did not realize that it isn't fully closed they could cut them self when they but it in their pocket etc.

I have the manufacturers box and warranty registration paper and another pamphlet that came in the box. I have 3 other Buck 110 Yellowhorse knives and they all snap fully shut.
 
I agree with EEE. Buffing compound will often work its way into the pivot area on the knife. Sometimes it gets between the blade and the rocker/lock spring which would cause the blade not to seat all the way down. In addition to what EEE said, I use a light/low viscosity tool oil to clean the pivot and rocker. Just put a generous amount of oil on the moving parts and open and close the knife several times and see if that doesn't resolve the problem. As you work the knife a black residue will come out with the excess oil. Once you get the knife clean you can leave the knife on edge on a paper towel over night and the oil will drain out of the knife and be absorbed by the towel. That should do it, if not contact Joe Houser to see what he would want you to do as far as returning the knife.
 
With that kind of problem you can just send it back to the factory and if they cannot fix it they will give you a new one. I am not sure what there shipping policy is.
 
Bartlee01,

I just recently got my first 110 and my knife does the same thing. I didn't realize that it was a problem until I played with one at walmart a few weeks ago which closed with a precision snap and stayed shut. My knife would always bounce back after I closed it so that the tip was slightly exposed.

I looked at it closely and did notice that there was a lot of black gunk inside the knife and thought this was the problem. I took some WD40 and spent quite awhile spraying it while opening and closing it. Pretty much what Richard Matheny said happened. It started leaking black goo but that was easy to clean up.

End result is that it is much much better than before...still not perfect or like the other 110 I handled...but good enough. I think with time and more oilings, it will possibly get better...there's probably some compound deep inside that I haven't gotten to yet.

To get more detailed, maybe 1 out of 5 times, it bounces back up now as opposed to all the times.

Hope that helps. :)
 
I would try cleaning and oiling it. I have two of the stag AG 110. One when I first bought it did the same thing. But I decided to keep it because of the nice stag. Sfter cleaning it and oiling I have had no problems at all. I have been carrying mine for 6 months now and have not had an episode since cleaning it.
 
Wow thanks guys didn't expect that many replies overnight. I'd try the cleaning and oiling thing and see what happens.
 
I checked mine out again and yes, it is definitely better but still does bounce back up occasionally. I have a feeling it could also be because of some manufacturing tolerances that are slightly out of whach as well.

I'm really interested in how yours turns out so please let us know. It'll give me an idea if it really just needs more oil. :)
 
Aza77 have you tried running it under hot water for a few minutes and then drying it and oiling it? If that doesn't work I would send it back.No sense of having one thats not right.
 
Kyhunt, thanks, I'll try that. Does the hot water do anything more than WD40 alone? Does the heat help clean out the gunk?
 
Kyhunt, thanks, I'll try that. Does the hot water do anything more than WD40 alone? Does the heat help clean out the gunk?

It depends on how long you have allowed the WD40 to soak. Overnight tends produce the best results.

My latest 110-| also has the same problem. I have drowned it in WD40 overnight and then blasted every surface of the knife with 60 psi of compressed air, the same treatment I gave to an Alaskan Guide, which has a silky smooth action. Try lifting the blade from off its closed position about 3cm above the rear bolster of the knife and then allowing it to snap shut. It should close normally. Anything beyond 3cm will usually result in the point sticking out. If yours behaves similarly, it may not be gunk after all. I suspect the brass is 'pinching' certain bearing surfaces of the blade in the closed position. Check the surface of the blade closest to the bolster and take note of any 'polished' spots as that may be the culprit.

Having said that, its an annoyance I can live with. Hopefully when the knife wears in and the problem will go away.
 
I don't know if the hot water does anything more than the wd-40 or not. I use hot water frequently due to I use mine alot for cuting meat and animals and the the hot water washes the gunk out before I oil it. Nagamitsu has a good point, I a Case Mako that had a simialr problem. I have noticed on my AG that there is alot of the coating worn off where the blade meets the bolster/pivot point. I never thought about it but maybe its the differance in the amount of the coating they use on the AG blade.
 
It depends on how long you have allowed the WD40 to soak. Overnight tends produce the best results.

My latest 110-| also has the same problem. I have drowned it in WD40 overnight and then blasted every surface of the knife with 60 psi of compressed air...

Nagamitsu uses the same technique I have used to clean up my 110 and 889 Buck knives.

And, run it under hot water like KY said. The water will rinse away any gunk. Actually, the best thing for removing the WD40 residue and the gunk it gets out is rubbing alcohol after you hit it with an air gun. In a former life I used gasoline but it will stink up your knife for awhile, even if rinsed afterwards in water. The alcohol smell will evaporate pretty quick

The best thing to do, if you can deal with the shipping/customs (cost/time) crap is to send it back to Buck. You shouldn't have to deal with a new knife in this manner...but I guess we all have and garnered a moment of success when ya get it right.
 
Thanks for the great info guys and to the OP. Nagamitsu, I think you might be right about about the pinching because I noticed some polished spots earlier. If so, that is something that will get better with time, right?
 
Well I cleaned up my AG 110 really well and oiled it and it does close better than before. Sometimes it will close properly but usually it does bounce back up a varying amount. I've decided I can live with this and I also suspect that it is because of the brass bolster pinching the coating on the AG blade. My other 110 Yellowhorse knives all close perfectly. I guess I'll just hope that over time it wears in and works better. Anyway it does the job and the blade is quite awesomely sharp!
 
Bartlee01,

I think you and I must have had twin 110's that got separated at shipping. It sounds like they're exactly alike, even when oiled.
 
The coating on the 110AG will wear at the pivot point causing it to get smoother. I recall my sticking a little more after thinking abouut it. I have had mine for 6 months now and there is no problem. Maybe just open and close it alot until it starts to wear.I dont know if it should have a break in period or not. But after mine was broken in no problem and it was worth the extra effort. My regular 110 had no such problems.
 
Here you can see the coating wearing off at the pivot point on the AG.

HPIM0194.jpg

HPIM0184.jpg
 
Thanks. My wife bought both of them for me. The regular 110 about 2 years ago for b-day. The stag this past Christmas.
 
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