Question about dyeing/staining Karelian/Masur birch handle

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WarnerB

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Oct 29, 2012
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What would be the best process to go about dyeing or staining a Masur birch handle that is on a finished knife? The color of the wood is little lighter than expected from the maker, and it took 40 days to arrive from Russia so returning it is not an option. I would like to dye this wood handle darker, to a reddish brown or just something darker. Thanks
https://imgur.com/a/K3G4XsM
 
Firstly, it needs to be unstabilized wood.

What you would want to do is give it a good sanding first, then hit it with some leather dye of your choice and let it sit for a day before buffing with paper towels and then sealing it with something like boiled linseed oil (sometimes I use a coconut oil beeswax blend).

Other people will suggest ''staining it''. I myself prefer water based leather dyes which get a deep penetration. But oil based leather dyes work just as good too.

Typically my process is sand, dye to a darker color than you actually want, let it dry overnight, followed by a fine grit sanding (which will lighten it slightly) and then a sealing (boiled linseed oil).

Properly dyed birch handles are some of the most beautiful handles out there IMHO. The dye really accentuates the grain.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Firstly, it needs to be unstabilized wood.

What you would want to do is give it a good sanding first, then hit it with some leather dye of your choice and let it sit for a day before buffing with paper towels and then sealing it with something like boiled linseed oil (sometimes I use a coconut oil beeswax blend).

Other people will suggest ''staining it''. I myself prefer water based leather dyes which get a deep penetration. But oil based leather dyes work just as good too.

Typically my process is sand, dye to a darker color than you actually want, let it dry overnight, followed by a fine grit sanding (which will lighten it slightly) and then a sealing (boiled linseed oil).

Properly dyed birch handles are some of the most beautiful handles out there IMHO. The dye really accentuates the grain.
Click to expand...
Is there any indication that tells if it’s stabilized or not? So far I’ve got it soaking in a jar of pre stain conditioner. I was going to soak it in standard wood stain. Should I hold off and get leather dye instead?
 
WarnerB said:
Is there any indication that tells if it’s stabilized or not? So far I’ve got it soaking in a jar of pre stain conditioner. I was going to soak it in standard wood stain. Should I hold off and get leather dye instead?
Click to expand...

Weight, density, if you can put a mark in with your nail. Wood feels like wood, stabilized feels more like plastic. Stabilized is heavy.

Judging from the photos and considering Russians, its likely kiln dried non stab.

You'll need to sand it first, maker has undoubtedly sealed/treated it with something. But I wouldnt ''soak'' it in anything. If you soak it there's no way to control dye absorbtion, could wind up with an aesthetic your not a fan of (just like now). Some grains in the wood absorb more than others and can basically turn black with over saturation.

I prefer to do it in layers to quasi control the color I'm going for, wood stain will work but I myself prefer leather dye

Then again I'm a picky bitch, but I have dyed many a birch handle.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Weight, density, if you can put a mark in with your nail. Wood feels like wood, stabilized feels more like plastic. Stabilized is heavy.

Judging from the photos and considering Russians, its likely kiln dried non stab.

You'll need to sand it first, maker has undoubtedly sealed/treated it with something. But I wouldnt ''soak'' it in anything. If you soak it there's no way to control dye absorbtion, could wind up with an aesthetic your not a fan of (just like now). Some grains in the wood absorb more than others and can basically turn black with over saturation.

I prefer to do it in layers to quasi control the color I'm going for, wood stain will work but I myself prefer leather dye

Then again I'm a picky bitch, but I have dyed many a birch handle.
Click to expand...
Here's after soaking in pre-stain conditioner and dark walnut stain for 30mins each. Not much difference. I'll try some leather dye on it this weekend.
https://imgur.com/a/uTn8efv
 
If its stabilized dying and staining will not penetrate it much at all.

Sanding in the same direction around the pins will just give them a less shiny matte finish.

In order to dye properly you need to sand off whatever its sealed in (if they are not stabilized), otherwise it will have difficulty penetrating.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
If its stabilized dying and staining will not penetrate it much at all.

Sanding in the same direction around the pins will just give them a less shiny matte finish.

In order to dye properly you need to sand off whatever its sealed in (if they are not stabilized), otherwise it will have difficulty penetrating.
Click to expand...
It seems to have taken some of the stain in the 30mins a very slight darker shade, and I can dig a fingernail in the wood and it makes a scratch line indent. It seems to not be stabilized. Also I don’t really see much of a finish, it seems like it’s just wood on the surface itself, not glossy or anything.
 
I've dyed about 20 curly birch knife handles, this thread has everything I know.
 
WarnerB said:
In case the dye gets on the blade.
Click to expand...

Its not going to dye the steel. You can just wipe it off places like the spine, etc, after its absorbed.

Anyways, all the info you need is here. Good luck on your journey, hope you get it the way you want it.. and I agree it needs changing, current color is a bit meh.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Its not going to dye the steel. You can just wipe it off places like the spine, etc, after its absorbed.

Anyways, all the info you need is here. Good luck on your journey, hope you get it the way you want it.. and I agree it needs changing, current color is a bit meh.
Click to expand...
I think he will need to sand handle because there must be some protection on surface , like Danish oil . That s way it didn't work first time . I do stain on some wood / quince/ and it absorbs liquid like a sponge .
before
uK97z91.jpg

after stain
8tA3spj.jpg
 
Natlek said:
I think he will need to sand handle because there must be some protection on surface , like Danish oil . That s way it didn't work first time . I do stain on some wood / quince/ and it absorbs liquid like a sponge .
before
uK97z91.jpg

after stain
8tA3spj.jpg
Click to expand...

I agree, and I tried telling him that.

Beautiful work as always ;)
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
Its not going to dye the steel. You can just wipe it off places like the spine, etc, after its absorbed.

Anyways, all the info you need is here. Good luck on your journey, hope you get it the way you want it.. and I agree it needs changing, current color is a bit meh.
Click to expand...
Great, thanks for the advice. After a few coats of the dye and letting it soak in before wiping it off it's looking much better! The seller got back to me and said it was unfinished and not stabilized so glad about that.
https://imgur.com/a/XkRhsLT
 
Natlek said:
I think he will need to sand handle because there must be some protection on surface , like Danish oil . That s way it didn't work first time . I do stain on some wood / quince/ and it absorbs liquid like a sponge .
before
uK97z91.jpg

after stain
8tA3spj.jpg
Click to expand...
Cool stuff. Luckily the seller got back to me and said it was not stabilized and unfinished so it seemed to take the dye well enough after a few coats.
 
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