Question about edge bevel angle & martensite

Joined
Dec 7, 2006
Messages
15
Okay.

As you all know. I'm making a survival/hunting blade out of L6.

It's going to have a single edge bevel because in my book, these are the easiest to sharpen. Especially with flat stones.

What should the angle of the bevel be???


Also.
Bainite is tougher than martensite, but. How come bainite breakes with only 20% of the force that martensite does??

Does anybody have a chart that shows the different structures within L6 and at which temperatures the transformations take place??


Thanks again!
 
Sorry to see your question hasn't gotten any response. I'm certainly not the right person to answer them, but I'll reply to bump it up for others to see again.

It's going to have a single edge bevel because in my book, these are the easiest to sharpen. Especially with flat stones.

What should the angle of the bevel be???

Actually, I think I can handle this one. Or rather, no one can. The thickness of the edge will have an enormous effect on things like strength. So, no one can tell you exactly. But, here's what I like to tell folks to start out. Make it as thin and acute as you can to start out. Heck, grind the thing from spine to edge with zero secondary edge bevel if your heat treat method will allow it. Then take it out back and do some trial cuts on the toughest jobs you'd normally expect to do. Chop up some knotty wood or bones, or whatever. Then inspect your edge for tiny nicks, and sharpen until they're gone. That's it. You now have an edge as thin as possible while still being stout enough for your purposes. I should think a primary edge bevel between 8-10 degrees per side, convexed or micro bevel to 12 degrees or so, and no thicker than a dime at the junction of the primary & edge bevels should be plenty with L6, if this will be a "normal" blade. Probably less if you're not doing a lot of abusive work.

This is of course geared towards a dual edge bevel, and I'm not convinced a single bevel would have any advantages, especially for the reason you mentioned. If you have the skills to make a knife in the first place, sharpening the stinkin' edge should be a piece of cake for you.

Bainite is tougher than martensite, but. How come bainite breakes with only 20% of the force that martensite does??

Did you by chance see this on Sword Forums? I'm not sure this is correct, or what the original poster actually meant. If this were true, then my big bainite bowie should have broken a long time ago.

For a combo hunting/"survival" knife I doubt you'd see any benefit to the bainite treatment, by all accounts I've read. It would be difficult to generate enough force with a normal sized knife to cause serious damage to this steel as it is, unless maybe you plan to beat on it with a sledge hammer.
 
SurvivalDude, I am sorry it took me longer than promised to post this chart, I hope you still find it:
l6ttt.jpg
 
Thank you very much guys.

I appreciate the suggestions and the information!


I'll continue to post my conversations with Dr. Hrsioulas as well.



Thanks again!
 
Back
Top