question about gun-kote

Burchtree

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need some advice from some folks that have used it. I'm thinking about picking up a 16-ounce can of this stuff but was wondering about dipping, etc. How did you go about applying it? Did you put it in a more slinder container and dip it? Any tips and tricks?
 
Mike Hull said:
It's not real easy, like spray paint.

I've got some, and the only problem I'm hitting in application (airbrush) is trying to work well away from dust. Once the coating is baked on, the dust is pretty well sealed in :D

No idea if I'm doing something right (or wrong) - what isn't easy, Mike? :confused:

I quite like the finished result for some stuff - I did a test blade in O1 to give it a bit of a beating. The best way I've found of reliably scratching the coating is to dig in some heavy clay with the knife, then sheath it without cleaning in a tight-fitting Kydex sheath a number of times... Apart from that (which qualifies as abuse of a knife as far as I'm concerned), it seems pretty reslient.

Peter
 
This sounds like pretty good stuff for some applications. Anyone have pictures of the various colors?
 
Er... I only have black. It's sort of a black colour, with a hint of black (and black highlights). Satin finish rather than a gloss, and it is a swine to photograph.

Oh - and regardless of what makes apparent sense, a grit blast with 120 grit does NOT hide 80 grit scratches (which are more-or-less invisible after blasting) after this stuff is put on... I've started going to 220 grit before blasting at 120.

Peter
 
Hey, Michael. I have used Gun-kote several times. I don't know if you can dip it or not, but I use an airbrush to apply mine and it looks very nice. Make sure you beadblast the blade and then warm it to about 100 degrees before applying it. It helps the material stick better.

Here is a link to one I just done: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326491
 
I've used GunKote many times on knives and guns.

My current carry .45 Commander is in brushed stainless color GunKote.

The part needs to be thoroughly degreased as it will leach out when you preheat the part.

I sandblast the blade, gunpart, etc....the degrease with Gunscrubber, acetone, etc then heat the part to about 160F....then apply the Gunkote with an airbrush. The liquid is very thin and doesn't look like it will cover.....but it does nicely.

After airbrushing I let the part air dry for about 20 min and then it goes into the oven at 300F for 30-45 min.

The finish is very tough....pretty much the same stuff of Reeves knives.....if you want extra tough....parkerize the part first then GUnkote over it.

Here is a link to a pic of the pistol:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=298674
 
Great information from all ! The gun kote site has good info also - has anyone used their K-phos ( I assume it's like parkerizing) as an undercoat, and does it help?

Another, possibly dumb question - when you guys say "airbrush" do you mean "hobby type airbrush" or like an HVLP or professional type spray apparatus?
Thanks for the info!

Bill
 
billf said:
Great information from all ! The gun kote site has good info also - has anyone used their K-phos ( I assume it's like parkerizing) as an undercoat, and does it help?

Another, possibly dumb question - when you guys say "airbrush" do you mean "hobby type airbrush" or like an HVLP or professional type spray apparatus?
Thanks for the info!

Bill

Their K-Phos is probably like parkerizing....which more than likely etches the finish. If you scratch the Gunkote somehow, the idea is that the park underneath will still protect the steel. This is essentially the same finish that Heckler Koch applied to the G3/G33, etc series of weapons. It might be overkill for knives but I have done it many times in the past.

I use a Paasche hobby airbrush and it works fine......you have alot of control with these and can do camo stripes, etc. The airbrush is essential...compared to the aerosol cans. It puts on a thinner coat which seems more resistant to scratching than the thick coats that the spray cans do.

I have found Gunkote to be 50-75% tougher than baking lacquers, Alumahyde, etc....

It is good stuff for sure if applied right....and that is pretty easy
 
How does Gunkote compare to other coatings such as Duracoat and Parkerizing?

Thanks

Parkerizing needs to be oiled to work, and if it gets to dry it's not as rust resistant.
Also parkerizing is not really a coating, as it becomes part of the metal it'self.
I think it's slightly tougher than the coatings, but takes lots of care to get a real good looking application. Once applied, it still requires maintenance.

Dura coat seems a bit thicker than KG Gun Coat, no baking is required, but it has cure time, and needs careful mixing before spraying. Wear resistance is hard to gauge on any of these coatings on KNIVES. Mostly because to use a knife you need to rub it against what ever your cutting.....which is what helps remove any coating. So wear resistance kind of depends on what your cutting, how often etc. Dura Coat may have changed since I last used it but it used to require 2 weeks to fully cure. It is how ever a very durable coating

KG is easier to apply than either of the above, even with the heating and baking factor
there is no mixing required, and once your done your done. No oiling, and no cure time.
It wears good enough, and stops rust which can make you crazy.
They have it in colors and also in clear which is sometimes handy. When appling, test out your spray first, because it can have different textures, which sometimes looks like attached dust....but no it's just the adjustment of your spray tool. What looks like dust is actually well organized mini globs of Gun Kote

The K-Phos is parkerizing, and it can be applied as an undercoat, and I have tried straight K-Phos just to see how it compared to the other way of Parkerizing.
K=Phos sprays on, good coverage, and rusts if not oiled just like Parkerizing.

Seems like the biggest drawback of Duracoat, Kg Gun Kote and K-Phos is the
smell when appling. Wear a good quality industrial type paint respirator. No Joke
all of it is accompanied with heavy duty fumes.
 
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