Question about handle wood (scales)

J

J S Machine

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Oct 15, 2007
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I bought a piece of Eucalyptus wood burl from AKS knife supply. The wood is very waxy, and dense. I made some inserts for a set of handles for a folder that I made, and after about a year of having them in there they basicly turned black. I guess the oils in my skin caused this.

I'm in the process of making a fixed blade and I was going to use two pieces of it as well for the handles or (scales). The tang has about 20 or so holes drilled in it, and I guess that is supposed to help distribute the glue/epoxy throughought the blade and handle surfaces.

What kind of epoxy do I need to set the handles to the tang? I will also be using some mosaic pins in two places (front and back) to align the handles. The blade is D2, and heat treating right now.

I just want this application of the eucalyptus wood to be succesful, because the last time it wasn't really. I had all the trouble in the world trying to find a glue / epoxy to hold it. seemed like every time I would glue them they would come out a month or so later.

Also - Does the wood need to be sealed with some sort of polyurethane or linseed oil?

Thanks!
 
I have never used Eucalyptus so can't comment on the darking but to glue up oily woods like cocobolo or ligume vitia get everything fitted up epoxy mixed and ready then wipe the blade tang and the backs of the scales real good with acetone and glue up quickly before the oils in the wood can creep ack to the surface.
Stan
 
Almost all woods will darken with age. Using a wax instead of oil will reduce this. I don't like PU on handles.

That's a good idea SBuzek. I usually grind a (rough) hollow into the backs of the scales to allow for more glue contact.
 
Eucalyptus burl realy could be any one of a thousand different woods,its like saying American hard wood burl.The supplier realy should tell you what it is exactly because some need to be sealed and others are more forgiving.eg if it is redgum it can be dried for a hunderd years and still move once it is put on a knife if it is not sealed as it takes on moisture and then gives it off the next day.This kinde of movement will break any of the more brittle epoxies.Try 24 hour Areldite as it has a little give and seal with a dainish oil or true oil stock finish . good luck mate.
 
You could just pin the handles with real, peened pins rather than the mosaics.
 
I don't have any experience with the Australian Eucalyptus but I do use a bit of red gum eucalyptus from California. The wood will oxidize on the surface over a year or so. What starts as dark pink will turn to purple. This happens faster with unfinished pieces. Not positive but I think it is from exposure to the air, not light. I finished some with oil and some with lacquer. The oil ones turned a good bit darker after a few years. But I like the darker purple patina myself.
Just my 2 cents. Mark
 
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