question about hardwood quality, just bought some turning blanks

[Last Visible Canary]

So, I purchased a set of turning blanks from http://www.turningblanks.net/,
and I have to say that I wasn't as pleased as I hoped to be.
they have fantastic prices, and a very nice selection of domestic
hardwood, but some of the stuff I'm seeing makes me think it's
cheap for a reason.

here is the set in question (not shown is a piece of white oak that
is excellent): 2 hickory's, a pecan, 2 spalted sweet gum's, a birch,
and a larger 3x3 beech.

so, the problems. I didn't order spalted sweet gum. I ordered what
they called "red gum", which can either be a eucalyptus or part of
the hazel nut family, also called sweet gum. Definitely didn't order
spalted. There are what look like worm tracks on several of the
pieces, most heavily on the beech. and what I'm really curious
about is whether the other pieces show spalting or if the grain
pattern and figure shown is normal.

hickory and pecan showing the very contrasting grain, and numerous
worm holes in the hickory. this I really don't like because the hickory
was going to be made into handles that will see a lot of shock, and
having holes in them is something I'd rather have avoided. the worm
holes are going through the wax, as apposed to the wax covering up
worm holes.

does hickory and pecan normally have this much of a delineated color
pattern?

The birch shows surface mold on one edge, which isn't much of a
problem since I can knock off that corner when working with it.

showing the more extensive worm action on the beech:

and here is where I really question the coloration of all this - the
darker material doesn't run with the rings as you would expect it
to with heartwood. the cloudy color on the end grain cuts across
the rings perpendicularly, and shows up on the radial side as a dark
line. is this spalting? (beech)

here's the nice white oak with big ol' medullary rays

any help would be appreciated

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Those seem pretty nice for turning stock. The characteristics you show are pretty normal, and desirable to turners. For handles, they should work fine. Fill the worm holes with resin/sanding dust when the handle is final shaped and ready for the last sandings. The spalting is a plus. The various stains and mold? are a sign of the wood being cut wet and waxed. Better grade blocks are cut from dried planks and flitches.

Buying wood via the internet is always a pig in a poke situation, and you often get what you pay for.Wood names vary, and often are dubious. Some sellers will work with you and allow you to send back for exchange, and others won't. Dealing with the bigger suppliers will prevent some distress. When possible, buy from someone who will let you come and pick the wood out of the boxes. This is why a lot of makers stock up at the knife shows ,where they can pick and choose.
Stacy

 

[scarysharp]

I would love to turn those pieces into something on my lathe. Like blads said "those characteristics are quite desireable with us wood turners.

So what do you plan to make with them? Tool handles?

 

[CarpScot]

Premium turning blanks fetch a premium price from turners who don't source their own wood. Most lesser priced blanks I have seen look much the same as the ones you received. Due to the thickness required for most blanks, they are often made of lumber that would be considered sub par for furniture makers or knife makers.

Many turners work their wood when it is at a pretty high moisture content to make it easier to turn. You might want to research the recommended moisture content of the different species you have, and test what your blanks are at. They made need time to season and acclimate to your humidity.

I hate to get any wood showing signs of beetle infestation. I have known two different furniture makers who have suffered some pretty extensive damage due to beetle infestations in their shops. Any reputable supplier will treat any wood that has even the possibility of beetles, so I would hope your blanks have been treated.

As bladsmth said, it is always best to choose your wood in person. Wood varies so much, itt is really the only way you can ensure you are getting what you want. On the plus side, those blanks will make some scales with a lot of character if you choose to keep them.

I hope this helped.
-Shane

*edited to add: I just assumed these were for scales. I didn't take notice of where this was posted. Sorry if what I said doesn't help you at all.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

I would love to turn those pieces into something on my lathe. Like blads said "those characteristics are quite desireable with us wood turners.

So what do you plan to make with them? Tool handles?

I have 2 khukuri handles I need to redo, one of wich is a massive 30" 5lb monster whose handle is meant for an ogre instead of a human I was planning on doing the smaller 18" ang khola in purple heart, but I'm considering doing it in something else (the hickory). I have a great love of purple heart and bloodwood, but I'm not sure that either would make particularly good hidden stick tang handles.

and as a back up, I kinda like having whatever wood I have be free of major visual defects (outside of figure) so I can steal a veneer off it. My main goal is to learn how to do marquetry at the moment. but those khukuri handles definitely have to get done at some point...

 

[Last Visible Canary]

Premium turning blanks fetch a premium price from turners who don't source their own wood. Most lesser priced blanks I have seen look much the same as the ones you received. Due to the thickness required for most blanks, they are often made of lumber that would be considered sub par for furniture makers or knife makers.

Many turners work their wood when it is at a pretty high moisture content to make it easier to turn. You might want to research the recommended moisture content of the different species you have, and test what your blanks are at. They made need time to season and acclimate to your humidity.

I hate to get any wood showing signs of beetle infestation. I have known two different furniture makers who have suffered some pretty extensive damage due to beetle infestations in their shops. Any reputable supplier will treat any wood that has even the possibility of beetles, so I would hope your blanks have been treated.

As bladsmth said, it is always best to choose your wood in person. Wood varies so much, itt is really the only way you can ensure you are getting what you want. On the plus side, those blanks will make some scales with a lot of character if you choose to keep them.

I hope this helped.
-Shane

*edited to add: I just assumed these were for scales. I didn't take notice of where this was posted. Sorry if what I said doesn't help you at all.

no, it helps a great deal. I'm just going to ask the sellers to try to update their descriptions and give at least some indication that spalting and worm holes may be present on orders. and also ask them if these post wax worm holes are potentially an active infestation. I can't keep these if it is, because I can't guarantee that whatever I make will remain as I make it, and I can't have my other stock infested.

I'll just stick to buying my domestic hardwoods from the higher priced sellers like penns hardwoods from now on. I haven't had a single problem with any piece I've ordered from them, I've just only ever ordered exotic hardwoods like katalox, yellowheart and bloodwood.

 

[John Andrews]

I would say you didn't get hurt too bad, but that's just an opinion. Show the wood to clients and I think you will be surprised how quick the wood gets used.
I like the wormholes and spalting, and so do many customers.

 

[vdwoodwork]

Im a wood guy but I have traded material (burl blanks, uncommon local species, spalted wood) I have gathered myself for turning to a knifemaker here locally. Here is my process for gathering material, might be some help in the future... https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2019/08/26/wood-turning-blanks/

What you have doesn't look that bad, and to my knowledge the wormholes, spalting, and some punkyness in the wood get rectified when the knife scales are stabilized. At least that is what was communicated to me. The guy I was dealing with said that, in the case of the spalted wood in particular it just absorbs more cactus juice. Wormholes are filled easily, I do that all the time with my sealed vessels. I saturate the adjacent area with some finish then make a mixture of CA and wood shavings or dust for smaller holes to fill the holes. The prefinish is to help prevent glue marks from the CA.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Welcome to Shop Talk vdwoodwork.

If you look at the dates of the posts you are commenting on, you will see this is a 13 year old thread. Posting on old threads isn't really a good thing.

When pulling up a thread to read when you are new, check the dates of recent posts to see if the thread is current.

Also, fill out your profile so we know where you live and a bit about you.