Question about Lignum Vitea board

D

Don in SC

Joined
Feb 6, 2011
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Please be gental as this is my first post, LOL. I'm just starting to make knifes and have been trying out different wood's for handle material.

A very good friend of mine gave me a piece of Lignum Vitea he got from a very old Hydro power plant in Michigan. He thinks the Lignum is at least over a 100 years old. Seems the power company use the wood as some sort of insulator spacer. It was very dirty so I wire brushed it and cut a corner with a knife. It very dark green, almost black, under the dirt. it's about 3/4 inch thick by 8 by 14 inch wide.

Frist problem I see is it's cut across the grain. I think if I saw it at a bias of 45 deg. I should beable to get well over one inch wide scales. Does anyone see a issue with this? I'm affraid to try to use it as straight on with the end grain facing out.

Second issue I see is it's feels as oily as an old shop rag. I've read that Lignum Vitea can be hard to glue and as oily as this wood is I see why. How would you guys go about gluing this stuff?

finally I'd like to show off a little if that's OK. Here's a link to the knifes I've made so far in December and January. Donald

http://s631.photobucket.com/albums/uu34/donws2/My three knives/
 
Lignam vitae is very dense and yes, very oily. Sure you can use it for a handle. The green to very dark brown is interesting but normal for that wood. It will want to load your belts if grinding and it may be necessary to back up a grit or two from normal to get the results you expected. It certainly is a very durable wood. Frank
 
Are you sure you have a 8 x 14 board that is cut cross grain (maybe i am misunderstanding) seems like a pretty big tree to get that board.

Glueing can be a big issue if you use the glue as the primary methods to hold the handles in place, I glue and then peen the pins to hold and do not use any clamps. The glue is used to seal, and the pins are what hold the handles in place. You should get squeeze out just like clamping.
 
That wood was also used as a shaft bearing, so it's possible that it is oil soaked in addition to its natural oil.
 
Also with lignum vitae,get the back of your scales sanded flat and fitted,get everything laid out for glue up.Mix your epoxy and then wipe the back of the scales with acetone and glue immediately.
Stan
 
I've heard that it has a tendency to check, once you mount the scales.
I've got a bunch that I wanted to use for scales, but once that I heard that it checks, I'm afraid to use it.
 
When i first started making knives a friend that worked for Ontario Hydro got me a block that was over a foot square.

I used it on many knives a lot checked and cracked but some are still perfect. It was used for tubine shaft bearings on the genrators. No oil touched them they where under water the oil in the wood was the lube and the water kept them cool.

They kept it in a tank under water at the power plant until they needed new bearings than the machine shop milled them out.

It is oxidized that's why it is dark like that grind it down some and you will find some beautifull grain.

Good luck Bob
 
Thanks guys. I was hoping I could just do a Acetone wipe down. I've got plenty of that. I was afraid I'd have to do some sort of Vodoo Magic to glue to get glue to stick. I'll do a couple simple handles first an watch them to see if they check. This stuff is very old so I'm hoping it's good and stable. Have a great week.

Picture test: Damascus and Bubinga I did a couple weeks ago
DSC04477.jpg


That worked and shows my finger prints really well also. LOL
 
What about something like Corby rivets or Loveless bolts to hold the scales on?

I've had a devil of a time trying to apply a finish to other oily tropical woods. Oil finishes just don't want to set up.

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
lonepine said:
What about something like Corby rivets or Loveless bolts to hold the scales on?

I've had a devil of a time trying to apply a finish to other oily tropical woods. Oil finishes just don't want to set up.

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
Click to expand...

I was going to advise the same thing. With Corby's you won't have to worry about the handle scales coming off even if the glue fails, the adhesive will keep moisture out.
 
Corby's are my best friend. No, I don't get paid to say that :)
 
Thanks for the idea guys. I have read about them but had not really given them much thought. I really like the looks of Mosaic pins but what good are they if the scales fall off. How are you rigging the recessed hole for the rivets? Do you use a drill stop or some sort of machanical stop?
Donald
 
I have never had a problem with the scales coming unattached from a knife just using brass pin stock i would say go ahead and use your mosaic pins. Most people use a step drill for loveless or corby fasteners.

Bob
 
You've all got me thinking now. Ace hardware has quite a sellection of brass and stainless screws and brass and stainless threaded bushing. If I were to recess drill my scales and tread one bushing all the way to the head of the screw and then run the screw through the scales and tighten against the other bushing in the other scale that should make a nice tight fit. I'd use a little thread lock to make sure it holds fast. Anyone try doing this. I guess using a very fine thread would not reveal to much of the thread cut out in the bushing. Donald
 
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It sounds like you've just invented the Loveless bolt. If so, they certainly work.

A number of makers today seem to think that Corbys look better. Personally,
I'm not too fond of the looks of either.
 
Lignum Vitea is the only wood that doesn't float. In the late 1800's they used it for bearings for the prop-shafts, when they first came out.;)
 
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