Question about Modifying FRN

C

Cosmodragoon

Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
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I've found that many "budget" knives benefit from a little chamfering along scale edges. Hard right angles and sharp corners might look cool but they don't always feel great in hand. Just a little work can sometimes radically improve ergonomics. You obviously want to take precautions to avoid breathing the dust but this is very easy work with G10. Heck, a basic emery board with coarse and fine sides is usually enough to achieve greatness.

Well, now I've got a new challenge. Some of Bestech's recently discontinued models in 12C27 have dropped down into the $30 range. I picked up a Spike and I rather like it. I don't mind the FRN scales but the inner edges really need some chamfering. I've never worked with FRN before. It doesn't really sand the same way. I just started, going lightly and slowly, and it seems to get a little... tacky or something.

So, any advice on dealing with FRN? Should I just take it apart and sand carefully? I'm going to need to use a soldering iron to break the thread locker on this pivot anyway. Could a careful application of heat be used to smooth out the sharp right angle on the inner scale edge?
 
Doesn't FRN have nylon in it and not epoxied? That may be why it sands differently than the epoxied coated g10.
 
Based on my limited experience, I'd say just sand carefully and progress through grits until you have it at the texture you want. You probably won't end up with a factory finish, but if it's a cheap knife and you're just chamfering edges, it should be satisfactory.
 
Cosmodragoon said:
I've found that many "budget" knives benefit from a little chamfering along scale edges. Hard right angles and sharp corners might look cool but they don't always feel great in hand. Just a little work can sometimes radically improve ergonomics. You obviously want to take precautions to avoid breathing the dust but this is very easy work with G10. Heck, a basic emery board with coarse and fine sides is usually enough to achieve greatness.

Well, now I've got a new challenge. Some of Bestech's recently discontinued models in 12C27 have dropped down into the $30 range. I picked up a Spike and I rather like it. I don't mind the FRN scales but the inner edges really need some chamfering. I've never worked with FRN before. It doesn't really sand the same way. I just started, going lightly and slowly, and it seems to get a little... tacky or something.

So, any advice on dealing with FRN? Should I just take it apart and sand carefully? I'm going to need to use a soldering iron to break the thread locker on this pivot anyway. Could a careful application of heat be used to smooth out the sharp right angle on the inner scale edge?
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You can try burnishing it like leather. It helps to take the scales off of the knife and then run the sharp edges along a hard, smooth surface with pressure. You can do it by hand or chuck something up into a drill press and use the rotation for extra friction.

If you're using a powered tool, use very light pressure and quick passes. You don't want it to melt.
 
Well, things did not go as planned here. The Spike uses a T6 for the pivot. The thread-locker is very powerful. The pivot steel... not so much. I heated it up. I gently increased pressure. The soft el-cheapo bit chewed right through, stripping out the threads. So unless I go to drastic measures and sink some holes for a spanner bit, that pivot is staying put.

I "fixed" the edges by gingerly running a small emery board where I could, coarse then fine. It feels better but looks a little janky. I flushed out what I could of the factory lube. (I've had other $50 Bestechs apart. All have had dirty internals out of the box.) It's drying now. I'll work some better lube into the pivot and see how things go.

Getting to know this one, the tip rests pretty close to the scale edge when closed. I don't like that but hey. This isn't bad for $35 and a little tinkering after dinner.
 
I've screwed up a bunch of FRN handles, and the one thing I've had good luck with is automotive trim restorer . It will get the sanded surface pretty even to the original stuff. You still need to sand or scrape as close as possible, then a couple coats of restorer and you're good to go.
 
Nylon doesn't sand well. The best method of working it is to use a sharp knife and carve it, but the glass is going to be hard on that sharp edge.
 
Diemaker said:
Nylon doesn't sand well. The best method of working it is to use a sharp knife and carve it, but the glass is going to be hard on that sharp edge.
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This^...I use a fresh x-acto blade for trimming FRN.

~Chip
 
I actually did exactly the same thing with my Cutjack. The inside of the FRN was a razor blade (seriously) when using the flipper. I just brushed the edges of the FRN ever so slightly with an emery board to chamfer them. There is actually even no evidence of doing it after wiping the dust away. Worked fine. The only thing I can think of that would create "gummy" FRN dust would be sweaty or damp hands while you work. Sounds stupid but might be your answer. Either way I didn't wear a mask so I'm probably going to die. Somebody here will get my Jethro Tull collection when I go.
 
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