Question about muzzle loading and amount of powder

FlaMtnBkr

FlaMtnBkr

Joined
Oct 20, 2004
Messages
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I got out my muzzle loader to start practicing with before the season starts. Apparently I have misplaced my powder measure so I borrowed my dads.

It is adjustable and made of brass and has markings but no numbers. So I got out my pyrodex RS and my triple beam. I want to start off with 90 grains. I calculated that to be 5.84 grams. I poured out the right amount of powder on the scale and then dumped it in to the measure to see what mark is the right one.

Well there was more powder than the measure would hold extended all the way out. I don't want to go dumping all the powder in and have my gun blow up in my face.

This powder measure could be 50 years old for all I know. I thought pyrodex was to be used in the same way as black powder and the volumes used were interchangeable (same density).

Just looking for suggestions before I go out and blow myself up. Thanks!

Ryan
 
http://www.hodgdon.com/data/muzzleloading/using.php

Pyrodex is lighter in weight than blackpowder and weighs only about 70% as much as blackpowder. However, because Pyrodex yields more energy per pound than does blackpowder, the same volume of Pyrodex gives similar performance to blackpowder. Pyrodex loads given in this manual for muzzleloading guns are measured by volume, not weight.

I think that this info from Hodgdon's site answers your question. You weighed the Pyrodex, which is much lighter than is black powder. Equal weights of both will not be equal volumes. You need to know the volume of your selected load of blackpowder, which is impossible if you don't know how the measure is graduated.
 
Thanks that is just what I was looking for.

I found the plastic bag it came in after digging around his muzzle loading box and it says it goes from 50 to 120 grains. I weighed out 90 grains by volume of pyrodex and it came to 64 grains by weight which is almost exactly 70% of the 90 grains by volume. Thats not worded well but it matches up with what you said.

Thanks a lot, now I won't blow my face off!!!

Ryan
 
Just make sure you compress the load.. a short started load will blow your rifle up and maybe your face.
 
Hey GUys..
Fla...

Why not just go to pellets ??

I shoot 150 grs of 50:50

Simple,works well,,and the same load each time...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
In all seriousness, if your rifle is rated for 120 gr. I would be pouring 120 . Granted the rifle in good shape, and the bore clean, seating the ball solid on 120 grains will give a more consistent trajectory and more stopping power then anything less.

Work up your load slowly, but there is a chance that your going to hear a noted change some were between 85 - 90 to 100 (?) grains as the ball brakes the speed of sound (charge will be different from rifle to rifle) but that change will be from just a good BANG to a good-ol Crack-Boom as the ball brakes the speed of sound, I would want the fastest or most maximum load possible, powder is the cheapest thing about hunting, and black powder is relatively safe, when your load is set, mark the rod so you will never fail to seat the ball, and have fun!

Kevin
 
Most muzzle loaders are less accurate with large powder loads, and most of it gets spit out unburnt when you get past a certain point. I'd work up an accurate load, it may not be as fast but it will be more consistent.

My lyman really likes 70 grains of FFg Goex. Its an absolute tack driver with this load, and a .54 caliber ball is nothing to sneeze at even with a low load like that.
If I wer hunting I'd bump it up to about 85, it still gets very good groups at that range and doesn't waste much powder if any. Not its peak accuracy, but still very acceptable. More powder than that and you're starting to waste it, shooting large loads over clean snow will show it right off.

If I had an inline, I might consider pyrodex or triple 7 pellets, but sidelocks don't like them. And part of the fun is working up an accurate load for your gun, trying different amounts of different powders, changing the patch thickness etc. Getting your powder in 50 grain slugs doesn't give you much freedom to experiment.
 
The old (ancient?) rule of thumb was 1 gr of powder for each .01" of caliber. So a fifty caliber theoretically used 50 grains. I used to shoot 40grs in my .36 and 60gr. minimum in my fifty. I have no idea where I heard or read this, but it's probably a good place to start.

I've heard the old saw that muzzleloaders shoot better with less powder, and I wonder if that isn't the shooters more than the rifles. I'll have to head out to the range for a test.
 
The rule may not hold as true for modern inlines shooting sabots, or even the better conicals. But with patch and ball, you reach a point where the patch will shred in the barrel, or burn through if you use too heavy of a powder charge.
 
Matt,

Good point on the low charge with sabots. I doubt it would hurt anything, but what would be the point. When I started with muzzleloaders, the only thing other than round ball was T/C's Maxi-Ball, which I never liked.
 
Funny how things change. Now I guess we all need to specify whether we're talking about muzzle loaders or "muzzle loaders" :D
I don't have anything against inlines, and would probably even consider getting one if I had more time to hunt (just as a bad weather gun....so my GPR stays pretty :cool: )...but advice for one doesn't necessarily carry over to the other.
 
To Amplify: sidelocks use loose powder, inlines pellets.

When someone comes up with ignitable pellets for sidelocks, I'll be grateful. Most sources don't recommend them for sidelocks - they're in arbitrary weights which may not stack to your guns preferred load, and seem to misfire more often due to the compressed face. Some of the New School stuff isn't backward compatible to the fullest degree.
 
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