I have one that I have used a little bit. Heres some info and opinions that may be of interest.
From the brochure that came with the knife.
Blade 7 high carbon, high chromium, cold rolled stainless, heat treat to Rc 56-58 with cryo treatment to -120F, double draw tempering, 0.165 at tang
Hand guard and pommel sintered type 316 stainless with chemical and impact resistance, pommel is press fit to tang and pinned with titanium pin
Handle Kraton G for good grip and chemical resistance
Gregory Walker Editor of Fighting Knives Magazine, 18 yrs military as Ranger and Green Beret field tested the knife
Richard Shultz of Mission Knives gave design input for the serration pattern used
Tim Wegner designed the kydex sheath for the knife
My knife came with a plain blade and a leather sheath. This is a less expensive combination than with the kydex sheath. The leather sheath is average. I think it will do okay in normal hunting and camping use but I dont think it would hold up to severe conditions like those encountered in combat operations.
The blade came with a double bevel. A relatively broad shallow bevel finished off with a much steeper narrow bevel to make the cutting edge. I changed the edge to a single bevel of about 20 degrees per side. This is probably a little thin for a utility knife but I prefer it. The clip part of the blade came sharpened and I have found that it is easy to re-sharpen it by putting the blade in the sharpening jig (Lansky type) backwards. The jig takes a good grip on the blade in this position.
I used the knife to remove some rather large (1.5 to 2 inches diameter) tree vines from the back yard. I batonned the back of the blade with a rubber mallet and used the knife to chop and pry with. The edge held up well with no rolling or chipping. I was kind of surprised that it did so well. When chopping, the pommel had a tendency to pinch my little finger and edge of my palm. When prying, the knife flexed more than I liked so I didnt do much of that, remembering that knives are expensive, inefficient pry bars.
There is a recent post about the failure of a Cold Steel Recon Scout. One of the things mentioned in this post is that the cut down tang is made with two interior right angles. This apparently is bad in that stresses can build up at the right angles making the knife brittle there. The Kabar is made the same way. Could this be cause for concern?