Question about pins in handles.

[SlipKid99]

So, I've decided to start experimenting a little with rudimentary knife work. I'm not yet equipped to make a blade, but I can certainly start learning the skills required for making / installing handles. That's important, anyway, and it's something I can do with the tools / space I have available to me.

So, to start out, I bought one of the Ontario economy 12" machetes. Inexpensive, easy to remove the existing handle (which I hate anyway - that plastic is awful), and based on my 18" military version, it'll make a decent utility tool.

I have some black palm wood I bought from the scrap section at a local hardwoods store, and I'm going to install a new handle. Simple enough for most of you, but this is my first time. So, a couple quick questions...

The existing holes for the handle rivets appear to have been drilled by a metric bit. I measured them, and they seem to be just a hair's width larger than 3/16". 3/16" is, however, the closest diameter I can find in round stock where I am.

I intend to use marine epoxy to attach the scales to the tang, and my impression has been that a 100% perfect fit for pins that are largely cosmetic may not be necessary. As long as the holes in the scales are drilled to the proper size, the pins will fit the scales, and the epoxy will do the main job of keeping the grip on the tang.

Is this incorrect? I've never even tried this before, and frankly, I have no idea whether there's a sort of "margin of error" operating with stuff like this, or if y'all tend to go with super-precise every time. Or somewhere in between.

Any suggestions?

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

Yes.

I routinely made pin holes in the tang larger to give small adjustment room for the scale. I drilled holes in scale 1/64 larger than pin.

Palm looks nice but very splintery. After 220/320 sanded, you might want to put a coat of thin CA (CyanoAcrylate) to close pores and keep grain together. continue to sand 220/320 to finish...

So, I've decided to start experimenting a little with rudimentary knife work. I'm not yet equipped to make a blade, but I can certainly start learning the skills required for making / installing handles. That's important, anyway, and it's something I can do with the tools / space I have available to me.

So, to start out, I bought one of the Ontario economy 12" machetes. Inexpensive, easy to remove the existing handle (which I hate anyway - that plastic is awful), and based on my 18" military version, it'll make a decent utility tool.

I have some black palm wood I bought from the scrap section at a local hardwoods store, and I'm going to install a new handle. Simple enough for most of you, but this is my first time. So, a couple quick questions...

The existing holes for the handle rivets appear to have been drilled by a metric bit. I measured them, and they seem to be just a hair's width larger than 3/16". 3/16" is, however, the closest diameter I can find in round stock where I am.

I intend to use marine epoxy to attach the scales to the tang, and my impression has been that a 100% perfect fit for pins that are largely cosmetic may not be necessary. As long as the holes in the scales are drilled to the proper size, the pins will fit the scales, and the epoxy will do the main job of keeping the grip on the tang.

Is this incorrect? I've never even tried this before, and frankly, I have no idea whether there's a sort of "margin of error" operating with stuff like this, or if y'all tend to go with super-precise every time. Or somewhere in between.

Any suggestions?

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Yeah, what he said ^^

I use a letter bit after my 1/4" pins. The holes are a tiny bit bigger than 1/4" through both scales and tang. As blunt said, it'll give you a tiny bit of room for adjustment.

These are the last scales I did.

 

[300Six]

Lee Valley Tools sold knife scale rivets at one time and likely still do. They're pure brass, not expensive and sold by the bag of 50-100 and work much like a compression/expansion fitting in that tapping the solid male end into the hollow female rivet locks them in place. I've so far used quite a few of them to do decorative wood projects not associated with knives. If super fancy is more your style then other folks on here will hopefully chime in. I have re-handled (ie new wood scales) old kitchen knives with 1/8 inch hardware/hobby store brass rod peened at both ends though and in those cases the end product rivets aren't quite so obvious, but they work.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

I would not rely on any epoxy to hold scales on. If you are going to use pins, peen them properly and they will hold your handles much better than any glue.

 

[Jastab]

I drill my holes .25" and use .187" and 5mm (.196") pins.