Question about re-grinding

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Jun 3, 2015
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So here's the deal-I'm thinking about having a knife reground by Tom Krein, a D2 #49, but with only one blade. Is anyone a fan or alternately totally against this? His regrind seem to come up fairly regularly, and usually don't last long on the exchange. Is the cutting performance enhanced enough to make the regrind a wise course, or not? I'll be sorry to lose the blade etch, but I carry this knife all the time, and would like to see even better cutting action. I do pretty well free hand, but the regrind I've looked at seem to cut well. What is the consensus on this, if there is one?
Thanks all, Neal
 
I have had a couple of GEC's with Tom's regrinds performed. He does a really fine job and it can really enhance the slicing properties of the knife. Now that being said, I don't feel that most GEC's require a regrind such as this. They utilize a very flat grind anyways so the gains of the regrind are somewhat marginal. You're considering a Queen of which I am not familiar with the thickness of the blade and secondary grind from the factory. But based on my experience, many Queen knives sport a somewhat thick blade with a very thick secondary grind. In the past I have had to put in extra time to reprofile those blades. So if that's the case with your #49 in D2, I think you would be very pleased with the end result of Tom's regrind. It's not cheap though so I personally would think hard about how much I really like the knife before proceeding.
I hope this helps without muddying the waters too badly. :D
 
Thanks Bob. Yah I'm a little nervous, just because it would be hard to replace. It's the horseman's stockman, blade, punch and hoofpick/backscratcher in bird's eye maple. There's a couple out there, but I'd just as soon not repurchase:D. The blade is about 3/32" on the spine at the plunge and at 1/8" or so back from the edge is 1/32". All I have handy are woodworkers calipers, sorry. I love this knife and I'm a little torn. However everybody who has one of his regrinds seems pretty happy, and he did do the sharpening for Bob Dozier, which imho is saying something. Just waffling I guess...
Thanks, Neal
 
Have you actually been in contact with Tom? I was under the impression that he was no longer dling regrinds, unless contracted to by a company. If I had the chance (and funds) I would definitely send him the knife.
 
Have you actually been in contact with Tom? I was under the impression that he was no longer dling regrinds, unless contracted to by a company. If I had the chance (and funds) I would definitely send him the knife.

This is what I have been told as well.

I am fairly certain that Tom is no longer doing re-grinds. (Sadly)
 
Neal, I tend to regrind - as in put a finer, more acute edge on, and thin out behind the edge - all my knives shortly after I get them. The only real exceptions to this are Moras, a particular modern production company, and some GECs which won't get much action as users. But with all those I still refine the apex a bit.

So I mention that by way of saying that it's not strictly necessary on a lot of knives - I do it because I like sharpening and playing with different steels and pushing the envelope as far as cutting performance goes. It also makes them much easier to keep them sharp down the line with a few passes on a fine, finishing waterstone; the Sharpmaker, or a strop.

With my small sample size of a Queen No. 9 Stockman and a 51 Jack, I would say that the resharpening I did was necessary, and the thickness behind the edge was personally unacceptable. Opinions on this vary of course. But I recall that I was taken aback at the butterknife type thickness of the edge of at least some of the blades on the stockman, and while the 51 came cleanly apexed, it was still very thick behind the edge.

People can say that it was a utility type grind, but that kind of thick edge is not to my taste, and is detrimental to the cutting performance the D2 blades of these knives are really capable of.

Since redoing them they are excellent performers, and despite their flaws I still really like them.

Another thing to mention, is out of the five blades I resharpened, four of them had fairly wavy grinds on the flats, which becomes more apparent as you thin out the edge. If yours is like this too, then a Krein regrind would fix that.

You can see where the blade flats dip a little towards the middle.




The main blade on the 51 was pretty ok.


So I'd say yeah, go for it if you're willing to pay the cost. Or, give it a go yourself if you have some sharpening skills.

I'd be happy to thin out and refine the edge of your knife, gratis, myself, but I'm guessing postage might be prohibitive, not being in the same country.
 
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Well I think I am going to do it. I have done some thinning behind the edge , just not to my total satisfaction. I am going to send it on to Tom, and just see what he can do, or at least what he thinks is best. As to anything else....he isn't accepting orders, to the best of my knowledge.
Thanks, Neal
 
I have reground a Queen stockman, a fixed blade along with my Buck 301. The slicing performance is world's better and re sharpening takes much less time as well. It really is a pain to have to take off all that D2 with a hand stone. A utility edge? Maybe a tougher edge. But the D2 really shines with well designed blade geometry.
 
Agreed. Perhaps why I like Dozier's and most all of his pupils/former employee's knives-a deep understanding of what the proper slicing qualities of D2 are, or can be.
Thanks, Neal
 
Another excellent choice to do your regrind is Josh of Razor Edge Knives. He's active in the Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment sub-forum and his work is a thing of wonder and beauty (including lots of regrinds).

Andrew
 
Yah , I may have a little different project for him, if and when the cash comes together. I've got a modern in M390 that needs reprofiling.
Thanks, Neal
 
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