Question about rebuilding my JRE Strop Bat.

[jeepin]

I bought a JRE Strop Bat a number of years ago. About a year ago the glue they used decided to give up on some parts of it. I reglued them down, but they started coming up again. A few weeks ago the whole strop got damaged by water, and now the leather is ruined. I want to take all 4 pieces of leather off, and buy new.

I would like to know if I should replace it with smooth leather like it came with, or 4 pieces of ruff fibrous leather?.

Also what is one of the stronger glues out there that will keep the leather on there for good?.

Thanks in advance..

 

[ryxlyx]

I haven't used it for this purpose but I've found contact cement secures leather permanently under conditions far tougher than what you describe.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

If you're dead-set on rebuilding/resurfacing, you might take some time to experiment with both smooth and 'rough' sides of whichever leather you try, before mounting it. Simple veg-tanned leather (also called 'bark-tanned' sometimes) will do for use with compound. Firmer leather is always better than softer stuff. Depending on the individual blade/steel or edge finish, either 'smooth' or 'rough' can be equally useful at times. The rough side of leather will vary all over the place, in terms of uniformity and texture, and some are a lot better than others.

Personally, at this stage, if you're rebuilding anyway, I'd just build some new individual single-sided strop blocks. The main downside to using a multi-sided strop 'bat' is the greater likelihood of contamination. If used on a bench or table, the 'down' face always is vulnerable to picking up dirt or coarser grit particles from the bench, which will defeat the purpose of your fine-grit strop. This is especially important if you use some of the higher-grade stropping leather, like horsehide or kangaroo leather, which are at their best when kept clean & pristine as possible, for the finishing touches.

I've heard contact cement is popular, though I haven't used it. My strop blocks were built (by me) using doublesided carpet tape, which is very quick & convenient, and has held together well.


David

 

[jeepin]

If you're dead-set on rebuilding/resurfacing, you might take some time to experiment with both smooth and 'rough' sides of whichever leather you try, before mounting it. Simple veg-tanned leather (also called 'bark-tanned' sometimes) will do for use with compound. Depending on the individual blade/steel or edge finish, either 'smooth' or 'rough' can be equally useful at times. The rough side of leather will vary all over the place, in terms of uniformity and texture, and some are a lot better than others.

Personally, at this stage, if you're rebuilding anyway, I'd just build some new individual single-sided strop blocks. The main downside to using a multi-sided strop 'bat' is the greater likelihood of contamination. If used on a bench or table, the 'down' face always is vulnerable to picking up dirt or coarser grit particles from the bench, which will defeat the purpose of your fine-grit strop. This is especially important if you use some of the higher-grade stropping leather, like horsehide or kangaroo leather, which are at their best when kept clean & pristine as possible, for the finishing touches.

I've heard contact cement is popular, though I haven't used it. My strop blocks were built (by me) using doublesided carpet tape, which is very quick & convenient, and has held together well.

Great post. Thank you, I appreciate the help :thumbup:

I have a leather store which is fairly close to where I live. I will be getting the leather from them.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Great post. Thank you, I appreciate the help :thumbup:

I have a leather store which is fairly close to where I live. I will be getting the leather from them.

You're very welcome. An additional tip, if you want to try a 'rough' finish on the leather, and your pieces aren't so uniform or a bit too coarse, a wire brush can be used to scrub it a bit, which can improve the uniformity and/or the texture. Something similar can be done to smooth veg-tanned leather, using sandpaper, to give the surface a very fine velvety 'nap', which holds compound very well. Don't ever do this (sanding/wire brushing) to the high-grade leathers though (horsehide, kangaroo). Again, I'd experiment as much as you can afford to; you'll likely find some advantages in a very wide variety of leather types/finishes. Take your time with that, before committing to mounting the leather.

You might also search for posts from member 'stitchawl' here. He has some great tips for enhancing & prepping leather for stropping. I'm betting he might chime in here anyway, so stand by.


David

 

[stitchawl]

Leather that has been damaged by water isn't necessarily ruined. I wash leather often. It just needs to be treated with a leather conditioner to bring it back. Think 'saddles.' They are rained on often, though made from the same type of leather. This is especially true of leather that will be mounted on a block and not subject to flexing. Get some good quality shoe cream (NOT POLISH!) and rub it into the leather, let it sit overnight, then rub in a little more. Your leather will be fine for stropping.

However, vegetable tanned leather (called tooling leather, bark tanned leather, etc.) isn't expensive, so if you'd like a nice crafts project, why not make yourself a couple of new ones with some scrap 1x3 wood. I've written long, step-by-step instructions for doing just that, and as OWE said, this will prevent cross-contamination.

For gluing it back down, use ordinary contact cement from any home center. Put a very thin coat on BOTH pieces, allow it to dry for 45 minutes, then carefully align and press together. A few taps with round faced hammer or rolled with a rolling pin using pressure, and the next day you will NOT be able to pull them apart. The leather fibers will tear first.

Stitchawl