How To Question about replacing bearing

S

Sharpco

Joined
Mar 27, 2019
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It's really hard to determine just how good those bearings are, but "IF" they're the right size (OD, ID, width) for the wheel they should work. The "RS" indicates they have a rubber seal on both sides, while ZZ would indicate a metal seal. Not sure how hot your wheels get, but the rubber might be a limiting factor. Might look for a ZZ bearing with metal seals. Perhaps other folks can comment on the need for metal seals.

Got to looking and found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZHHL3Q/ which seems to be a double metal seal "ZZ", but is a good bit more expensive.

Let's face it, as cheap as the bearings are they don't have to last forever, depending on how difficult they are to change of course.
 
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in my experience, the bearing quality is largely irrelevant if it isn't installed correctly. Make sure when you push in your new bearing, you push on the outer race, not the inner one. If there is no sleeve between the two bearings in your wheel, make sure you tighten the fasteners juuuust tight enough, or you will decrease the lifespan of you new bearings by a significant amount. Over tightening cartridge bearings will kill them
I would think 2RS is what you'll want, metal shielded bearings are mainly for machines that don't see a lot of particulates
 
Ken H> said:
It's really hard to determine just how good those bearings are, but "IF" they're the right size (OD, ID, width) for the wheel they should work. The "RS" indicates they have a rubber seal on both sides, while ZZ would indicate a metal seal. Not sure how hot your wheels get, but the rubber might be a limiting factor. Might look for a ZZ bearing with metal seals. Perhaps other folks can comment on the need for metal seals.

Got to looking and found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZHHL3Q/ which seems to be a double metal seal "ZZ", but is a good bit more expensive.

Let's face it, as cheap as the bearings are they don't have to last forever, depending on how difficult they are to change of course.
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KMG use rubber seal bearing, so I'm looking for same type.
 
Lorien said:
in my experience, the bearing quality is largely irrelevant if it isn't installed correctly. Make sure when you push in your new bearing, you push on the outer race, not the inner one. If there is no sleeve between the two bearings in your wheel, make sure you tighten the fasteners juuuust tight enough, or you will decrease the lifespan of you new bearings by a significant amount. Over tightening cartridge bearings will kill them
I would think 2RS is what you'll want, metal shielded bearings are mainly for machines that don't see a lot of particulates
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I didn't know I have to push on the outer race. Thank you for advice.
 
Sharpco said:
I didn't know I have to push on the outer race. Thank you for advice.
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no problem, glad to help. I usually use a socket that's just slightly smaller that the OD of the bearing. You definitely don't want to press against the seal, though
those bearings you posted a link to are 52100, which is good because that's what carbon bearings are generally made from. And they're cheap, which is good
 
Lorien said:
no problem, glad to help. I usually use a socket that's just slightly smaller that the OD of the bearing. You definitely don't want to press against the seal, though
those bearings you posted a link to are 52100, which is good because that's what carbon bearings are generally made from. And they're cheap, which is good
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Socket? Does it mean socket for wrench? That's great idea :)
 
CallumRD1 said:
ZZ bearings are shielded and will not do a good job preventing metallic grinding dust ingress. You want RS sealed bearings.
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I did not realize the ZZ bearings were not sealed, only shielded. If so, then RS would be the type use use for sure. RS is what I always use, they're so much cheaper :)
 
Sharpco said:
Socket? Does it mean socket for wrench? That's great idea :)
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yup. You might be able to gently tap the bearings in with a mallet, or use threaded rod and nuts to press it in. Only do one at a time! Even with a proper press, you more than double the chance you'll push them in crooked if you press both at once. If you destroy or distort the bearing seat, you'll need a new wheel so be careful
 
Lorien said:
yup. You might be able to gently tap the bearings in with a mallet, or use threaded rod and nuts to press it in. Only do one at a time! Even with a proper press, you more than double the chance you'll push them in crooked if you press both at once. If you destroy or distort the bearing seat, you'll need a new wheel so be careful
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A little lube is also not a bad idea to prevent galling👍
 
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