Question about Scott's sharpening video

surlyman

surlyman

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
209
Hi all,

Happy Labor Day. I wanted to ask a question for clarification concerning Scott's sharpening video. I have the EZE-Lap diamond rod and the red and green DMT duofold. After the touch up, Scott suggests "going to the strop." I have a leather hone: the block of wood with a piece of leather on it, which a lot of people refer to as a strop. Then there is the "belt" that is called a strop. I don't have one of these. Scott, or anyone else, would the hone work for getting rid of the burr or should I get a true strop for the job?

Just wondering. I have been trying this method of keeping my knives touched up and I get them pretty sharp, but not quite as sharp as I would like. I think the final strop stage may be one of the issues.

Thanks for the help.

Tal
 
Quarter Tank said:
I would use the leather strop with a green fine finishing compound on it
Click to expand...

I would do this. Whether on wood or just a loose belt you should be able to get it good and sharp either way. The trick I have found once the burr us up you have to turn the edge just a little bit more, very slightly, to polish it off then flatten the blade on the strop to the original angle with very light pressure to give it that hair popping edge. I don't know if that made any sense, but it works. Keep trying, you can do it. :thumbup:
 
Ok, that sounds good. I'll keep trying with my leather strop glued to the wood block. Now, I have Bark River green compound. Is this the same as the "green fine finishing compound"?

Thanks for the help.

Tal
 
Tal, there's a couple of ways I finish the edge. In order for it to be shaving sharp you do need to remove the entire burr. Stropping on leather is one way as has been described. Also cardboard works great and you can add compound to it. You do need heavy, dense cardboard to be most effective. I very seldom strop on leather. For touch ups I use the 2 sharpeners you use, then strop on my pants. If I want it sharper, I use a steel. Either my Gerber, Buck, Schrade Honesteel or a plain old butchers steel. Then strop on my pants. Remember, light pressure and not too steep an angle. I also am very fond of the Jewelstik 3 side diamond sharpener I mention in the second vid.
Scott
 
Last edited:
I would also like to point out that you can sharpen a convex edge on a flat stone. I do it that way with excellent results. So if you are used to this method of sharpening, it will work. One of the best stones out there IMO is the Norton Fine India.
Scott
 
I have recently been learning more about sharpening and I don't have experience with a stone. A couple of years ago I bought a Spyderco Sharpmaker and I have not been able to get great results. I have been experimenting with the wet/dry sandpaper method on a thick mouse pad, followed by black compound on a leather hone and then green compound on a hone. I was drawn to your video because it seemed to simplify things quite a bit. I've been using the EZE-LAP/DMT method you suggest. I recently bought a "magna guide to fit on my duofold sharpener to help me maintain a consistent edge while sharpening. This has helped quite a bit. I need to spend more time sharpening my $9 sodbuster and my $13 Svord Peasant knife before I take another go at my Gossman.

By the way, I went back and checked out your second sharpening video. I hadn't seen that before. I find your videos very helpful. If I didn't live all the way over in Colorado I'd drop by and have you walk me through your sharpening method.
 
Man, I didn't take care of my Tusker for several months and now it's dull a a rock. I have been working it like CRAZY on sand paper and can't get an edge. Sometimes it can be frustrating as hell. Goes to show you that you should always touch up your knife and keep a good edge on it, because unless you have a belt sander, it can take forever to put an edge back on it (haven't gotten there yet)....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top