Question about sharpening different steels.

Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
219
Hi, I just got my first sharpener a few days ago, it was a cheap lansky multi sharpener

http://www.fatiguesarmynavy.com/store/item/FA2144

I have never sharpened a knife before, so I decided to try it on my S&W folder with "440C" steel blade. After many hours of trying to sharpen it, and trying different ways and angles, I wasn't able to get the blade anywhere near razor sharp. Am I still just using incorrect technique? or is it not possible to get a razor edge on cheaper steels like S&W's chinese made 440C?

Thanks,

Gary
 
first off, on the Lansky sharpener, i use the 25 degree angle for my EDC knives, and i sweep the hone from the base of the knife to the point in one smooth moton, i don't use the Lansky "multiple short strokes" motion, i also work one side of the knife until a burr forms (you can feel it) then i flip the knife over and cut it off by using the hone on the other side, maybe 2 sweeps or so

you really have to go by "feel", there's no magical number of strokes per side, sharpening is as much an art as it is a science

i use the Lansky to bring the edges back on badly abused knives, and i maintain on the Spyderco Sharpmaker, typically after a few cutting sessions, if the edge feels like it's starting to roll over, i grab my leather scrap and strop the edge a few times to realign it, most of the time that fixes it, if it doesn't, a few passes down the Sharpmaker will bring it back


from my limited experience sharpening, most steels will take a shaving-sharp edge, however they'll all "feel" different....

from my limited knife collecion;

generic "Stainless" (my generic butterfly knife and Gerber EZ-OUT) will take a sharp edge, maybe not shaving sharp, but reasonably sharp, they just won't *feel* sharp

420HC (Buck 110 and Kershaw Scallion) will take the easiest edge and can get scalpel-sharp, but will need more care to *keep* the razor edge (stropping and/or steeling to realign the edge), these steels will *feel* sharp, a little "toothy" but scalpel-sharp

VG-10 (Spyderco Endura and Cricket) and ATS-55 (Dyad Jr) Scalpel-sharp/scary sharp, so sharp you won't even feel the cut until after it's done, and the cut will be very clean, no ragged edges, very durable edge retention on VG-10, ATS-55 needs more touching up, these edges feel very *smooth* and polished, a little more difficult to maintain than 420HC, but not actually *hard* to maintain

Aus-6 (Spyderco Jester) honestly, i'm not happy with this steel, it's "fussy", when you get a nice sharp edge on it, it's great, cuts well, but the edge wears quickly and is very sensitive to breakdown, a "toothy" edge

CPM-S30V (Spyderco Native) has the durability of VG-10 and the "toothy" feel of 420HC, a little tougher to sharpen when it gets dull, but holds a good, sharp edge for a long time, doesn't "polish up" as well as VG-10 or even Aus-6, a good, solid, tough and reliable steel, yes VG-10 may be "prettier" and shinier, but CPM-S30V is a workhorse

personal preference (best to worst) of my "Supersteel" knives would be;

CPM-S30V and VG-10 (tie for first)
ATS-55
420HC
Aus-6
 
Unless you have experience sharpening freehand, that is going to be a difficult tool to use. I'd recommend using a Sharpie marker on the edge. That way you can tell if you're actually sharpening the edge or just removing steel from the shoulder or the bevel. Something like what you have there is really only good for touchups and sharpening fishing hooks. Invest in a regular Lansky set or a Spyderco Sharpmaker, it'll save you alot of frustration and give you that edge you want. 440C will get very sharp, even S&W, I've sharpened them for friends and had no problems.

P.S. the price for the Lansky kit is absolutely ridiculous from that site. $135?!?! Even the diamond set can be found MUCH cheaper.
 
Laceration said:
Unless you have experience sharpening freehand, that is going to be a difficult tool to use.

I agree ... if you're new to sharpening, start with a system that holds the angle for you. In fact, even if you do sharpen freehand, sharpening on such a small stick will be a challenge. Putting it gently, I'm not sure you could have made a worse choice :) :) You'll have better luck with one of the Lansky angle-holding systems, Spyderco Sharpmaker, Razor Edge guides, or Apex if you've got big $$$.

Joe
 
Personally I've never had much luck with those Gary. I'd try getting the Razor Edge system and once you get the idea and the hang of the angle to keep on the edge I'd do away with the guides and just use their dry hones. I have the 6" ones but I'd have to recommend the bigger ones and thats what I'd get if I were planning to use the guides. I do everything free hand anymore so the 6" is fine for me. These stones work well. www.razoredgesystems.com

I also really like the EZLap dimond sharpeners for quick touch ups. I use one of the super fine ones when I'm whittling along with a strop and have to say I am a fan. For the money difference these are every bit as good as the DMT products based on what I've experienced. One swipe on each side of my CJ when I'm whittling and it feels just like a new edge all over again. http://www.knivesplus.com/eze-lap-sharpener-ez-lpak.html

http://www.888knivesrus.com/product/EZE510



STR
 
Back
Top