Question about sharpening using Ken onion work sharp

[kingston73]

I have a ko worksharp that I've used to set all my knives to a 20 degree angle and also have a spyderco sharpener as well. My question is this, does using the spyderco to maintain sharpness make sense if my knives have an initial edge set with the ko? I know the ko makes a convex edge so I'm not sure if I'm harming anything by using the spyderco afterwards. In other words are the 2 systems counter productive? I hope this makes sense...

 

[cbwx34]

No problem at all... you might mark your edge with a Sharpie, and make sure you're hitting the edge with the SharpMaker.

In the future, you might consider a slightly lower angle on the KO... for example 17-18°... this will insure you're just touching up the very edge with the SM.

 

[kingston73]

Thanks, so a lower angle on the ko? The spyderco is a 20 degree angle for each side, right? So setting the ko to a lower angle would give me a micro bevel? Just trying to visualize things...

 

[cbwx34]

Thanks, so a lower angle on the ko? The spyderco is a 20 degree angle for each side, right? So setting the ko to a lower angle would give me a micro bevel? Just trying to visualize things...

Yes the SM is 20° ... setting the KO to a lower angle, allows you to just touch up the very edge with the SM (basically a microbevel)... it makes it easier and quicker to touch up, and insures you're hitting the edge without issue.

 

[ecallahan]

I do exactly what cbwx states - I go 18 on the WS if using the 20 setting on the Sharpmaker, and 13 if using the 15 degree setting. I aspire to sharpen well freehand but until then I really like this method.

 

[kingston73]

Thanksor the thoughts, I may try both methods. What is the benefit of 20 vs 15 or vise versa?

 

[Mo2]

the ko is a convex edge, the sharp maker doesn't do a convex edge (but you can probably do it like you can convex on a bench stone.

 

[me2]

Thanksor the thoughts, I may try both methods. What is the benefit of 20 vs 15 or vise versa?

15 will cut better and hold an edge longer, unless you are cutting fairly hard material. Then a 20 degree bevel will work better. I've switched all my knives to 15 except one that sees fairly rough use and scraping.

 

[HeavyHanded]

No problem at all... you might mark your edge with a Sharpie, and make sure you're hitting the edge with the SharpMaker.

In the future, you might consider a slightly lower angle on the KO... for example 17-18°... this will insure you're just touching up the very edge with the SM.

This is the way to go, it works going from a belt to any hard abrasive. Use the Sharpie to double check, and a very light touch on the KO.

 

[Mo2]

I've always through sharpening angle is dependent on the steel type and edge geometry?

 

[me2]

Steel type and ht determines the bevel that is possible for a given use. That requires a fairly high degree of optimization for specific things. Most people don't take it that far.

Take a wood worker that had specific chisels for pine, oak, etc, then, each wood had chisels for end grain, etc. Most people just set one angle for all their knives and go. I used to use 20 degrees per side for everything, but recently switched to 15 or lower in some cases, though they get task specific at that point. I have a 3 blade stockman with one at 20, one at 15, and one at 10 degrees, all for different things. They will all have different grits too, but I'm not done yet. 20 and fine for scraping and rough use, 15 and medium for general, and 10 and polished for push cutting and trimming.

 

[Echo63]

I don't have a Worksharp yet, but i do have an edge pro and I use the technique described by cbwx34
my knives are sharpened with the edge pro, at 16-17 DPS, then maintained for ages with a couple of strokes on the ultra fine sharp maker rods every so often.