Question about Spyderco ATR lock mechanism

peacefuljeffrey

peacefuljeffrey

Joined
Feb 24, 2001
Messages
1,308
I have not had the opportunity or pleasure of handling an ATR yet, so I ask those of you who are familiar with it.

I know that it is a titanium framelock. What I want to know that I can't tell from looking at it is, does it use the inserted ball bearing / detent method for keeping the blade closed? I ask, because I know that the compression lock Spydercos use a milled tang for the liner lock to engage, and I prefer this, since it is simpler.

I was just reading another thread by someone who is so enamored with the Sebenza that he said "no other knife comes close." I guess I could feel that way about the ATR, as long as it does not use the ball bearing. So before I plunk down near $150 for it (or whatever it costs), I want to know if it is still gonna be just another knife, and not THE knife... You know what that's about, right?

Thanks,
---Jeffrey
 
It has a channel cut in the pivot part of the blade which the locking arm seats into when the blade is closed. It has the feel of a ball detent without the ball. The ATR has all the making to be the "one" in terms of fit finish and quality, but like most Spyderco's it is a bit unique in looks so it would be up to your personal tastes. It is a really well built folder and I am glad to have one. It incorporates an outstanding lock and the great opening hole and the addition of the cobra hood compiments the hole. I can't imagine anyone being disappointed in this knife...Ed.
 
My ATR is from the first run. It uses a V notch cutout at the heel of the blade. This allows the heel of the blade to disengage from the handle pin just as the blade rotates to the closed position.

The handle pin stops the blade when the knife is fully open also. When closed, the pin is not touching the heel of the knife because of the notch & this allows about 1/8" of movement of the blade while closed,(at the tip).

That movement is of no concern because the tip of the knife is never able to clear the scales, before engaging the pin & meeting resistance to opening.

When holding the blade in one hand & the handle in the other, with the knife closed, if you gently start to pull it open, you can easily feel the point where the rotation of the heel has cleared the notch & met resistance at the pin. This keeps it secure for tip up carry.

In case you're wondering, the scales come apart & the pin can be replaced.
My ATR been reprofiled on the EdgePro & brought up to 600 grit hone finish. That S30V steel took an edge that cuts hair above the skin. It's so dang sharp, I hate to use it.
:rolleyes:
 
It is not a Frame Lock but an integral comression lock. Two different ways of keeping the blade open, my friend. The frame lock works in much the same way as a liner lock, Sal's design attacks the problem from a different angle, so to speak. Apples and oranges.
 
D'oh! I knew that! I checked out all I could find when the knife was first announced. In fact, it's why I got other compression-lock knives from Spyderco (Gunting and Vesuvius).

I like the C.L. a lot and now that I have confirmation about the type of lock on the ATR I plan to get myself one.

If I had only remembered that it was not a framelock, I would have remembered that it probably did not have a ball-bearing and that would have obviated the need for my question. :footinmou

So thank you for the responses and information. I think that the ATR is possibly gonna be a long-term "THE knife" for me when I get it. That, and my Nimravus cub for the fixed-blade category.

So now, tell me about the S-30V. I know it's the latest "great steel," but how is it about corrosion resistance, compared to say, 440C, which I am given to understand is real good?

---Jeffrey
 
S30V is pretty great for a stainless. Very good corrosion resistance, above average edge-holding and toughness, touches up really quickly. It takes a little longer to sharpen, but it's worth it. Especially with an ATR or a Benchmade 921.
 
My experience has shown S30V to be very rust resistant unless it is bead blasted. My sebenza has been covered with sweat and moisture and routinely dries on the steel without bein wiped down and still shines. I believe the ATR has a smooth finish so it will not rust on you as an EDC.

Just out of curiousity, others that own an ATR how is the flick-ability of this knife?

Jon
 
Originally posted by Kimberholic
Just out of curiousity, others that own an ATR how is the flick-ability of this knife?
Click to expand...

For right-handed people, it's a dream. You just move the lock bar slightly over and it flicks open or closed very quickly, yet very gently. For southpaws, you go through a little histrionics, but eventually arrive at a place where you move the lock bar slightly over and it flicks open or closed like a slightly awkward dream.

For me, it was hit-or-miss with the Brownie pop. I found that if my finger tips were closer to the opening for the blade than to the lockbar, it worked. It felt too hard on the knife, though. Ironically, that same pop feels easier on Extrema Ratio folders than using the thumbstud.
 
I loved the pass-around knife while I had it. The action was butter smooth, that thing Spyder-dropped open like nothing. I had no problems disengaging the lock with my right hand, using my middle finger.

For corrosion resistance, I noticed that the inside of the spyder-hole on the pass-around ATR had developed a little surface rust. It wasn't bad but it's definitely something to watch out for.
 
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