Question about the Spyderco Sharpmaker

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Provided you don’t let your knives get too dull, can the Sharpmaker realistically address all your needs for user knives? I don’t usually put my knives to extreme hard-use territory. I often just open packages, cut rope, and do occasional food prep. The most “stubborn” steels we have in the house are probably S110V and Maxamet. I’m totally okay with the setting of 20 DPS.

Looking to upgrade from my $20 Lansky Crockstick sharpener, but I’m not quite ready to shell out for an Edgepro or Wicked Edge set just yet, hehe.
 
I'm not an upper end sharpening guru, but I've had mine since the early 20's and it's done me well.
 
To reprofile with the Sharpmaker I use 3M wet \ dry sandpaper attached to the sharpening rod using thin double sided tape.
 
For routine sharpening I think it's great and very easy to use once you get the hang of it. Probably good for 95% of general sharpening needs,

It's main purpose is not to reprofile blades but you can even do that with the diamond sticks as TRfromMT mentioned....
 
For some reason, the Sharpmaker, and similar, rounds the tips of my knives. I try to keep my knives sharp enough where ceramic sticks are all I need to keep the razor sharp. In case a knife is very dull, or the steel too hard, a diamond stone works for me. Of course, I’m probably doing something wrong with the Sharpmaker.
 
For some reason, the Sharpmaker, and similar, rounds the tips of my knives. I try to keep my knives sharp enough where ceramic sticks are all I need to keep the razor sharp. In case a knife is very dull, or the steel too hard, a diamond stone works for me. Of course, I’m probably doing something wrong with the Sharpmaker.

Don't drag your tip off the stone -- stop the sharpening while the tip is still on the stone. That should help.
 
As said above a Sharpmaker can cover most edged tools with the addition of either the CBN or diamond rods (they appear to be redundant) and a set of the Ultra Fines. It’s a deceptively simple system, so surprisingly takes a while to learn. Be prepared to watch Sal’s videos and maybe more you can find on YouTube. This forum is also a great archived resource.

I've gotten great results with it when I do my part but it takes time and patience if I want a fine edge on harder steels. Often times I can put a toothy edge on a softer steel using only the brown rods. Sharpening a carbon steel blade on those is a breeze. Some super steels can be a nightmare. They can take a long time to raise a burr and remove it. Maybe an hour or more.

Rounding the tip is one of its main flaws. Stopping the tip on the rod isn’t that easy with a long knife.

Overall it’s the best non-guided stick system on the market. Add a high-power loupe and a Sharpie to complete the kit. You’ll see why in the videos.
 
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Even though the Lansky Turnbox (LTB) is a rather budget sharpening solution, I wonder if spending more (considerably more) for a similar method (SM) is going to be a large enough upgrade. Maybe look at other devices, perhaps something like the Lansky Sharpening Kit that looks like a very budget clamped style system.

Just a thought, as the venerable LTB works quite well as a edge maintenance system.

Disclaimer: I am in the same position as you. I have the LTB system and have thought about getting the SM, but I don't think it's going to bring me that much of a better sharpening solution.
I did buy a WSKTS, not the Ken Onion Edition, on sale for a good price and it works fantastic on regrinding. Of course the usual caveats apply but with the two different methods, as well as regular sharpening stones, I keep my stuff reasonably sharp for a lot less than a KME or a WE.
 
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Lansky Turn Box is to Spyderco Sharpmaker as Lansky Deluxe Sharpener is to Wicked Edge WE130.

The main flaw in the Lansky clamped system is its inability to easily adapt to distal tapered blades.
 
As said above a Sharpmaker can cover most edged tools with the addition of either the CBN or diamond rods (they appear to be redundant) and a set of the Ultra Fines. It’s a deceptively simple system, so surprisingly takes a while to learn. Be prepared to watch Sal’s videos and maybe more you can find on YouTube. This forum is also a great archived resource.

I've gotten great results with it when I do my part but it takes time and patience if I want a fine edge on harder steels. Often times I can put a toothy edge on a softer steel using only the brown rods. Sharpening a carbon steel blade on those is a breeze. Some super steels can be a nightmare. They can take a long time to raise a burr and remove it. Maybe an hour or more.

Rounding the tip is one of its main flaws. Stopping the tip on the rod isn’t that easy with a long knife.

Overall it’s the best non-guided stick system on the market. Add a high-power loupe and a Sharpie to complete the kit. You’ll see why in the videos.
I’m glad I got hours of practice with the Lansky Crock Stick sharpener. I can pretty much stop before sliding off the tip consistently now. Too bad my old saber-ground Endura 4 had to pay the ultimate price before I learned: a slightly rounded tip. Light reflects on the damn tip of my boyhood knife. @#&% it!

It really just takes practice. If a regular dude like me can do it, I reckon anyone can.
 
The advantage of the sharpmaker over the lansky (i had the turnbox before the sharpmaker to see if a crock stick system really worked, and I was impressed!) is the length of the stones and the fact you have flat sides on the stones to prevent rounded tips (or to help fix rounded tips). You also have the option to use them as a bench stone, they work great to sharpen scissors and other edged tools...I believe the sharpmaker is worth the extra money especially with the diamond rods. I have the ultra fine rods as well, but I don't really use them often. The medium rods themselves get an edge stupid sharp.
 
Don't drag your tip off the stone -- stop the sharpening while the tip is still on the stone. That should help.

Yup, that’s the problem. I wonder if the same (rounded tips) is the result with the Wicked Edge if you’re not careful.
 
The SM stones are good quality. I think that’s what you pay for really. The plastic base can’t cost much.
 
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