No. The 'floating' or captive blade stop means that tension on the blade stop should no longer have any effect on the adjustment of the pivot.
By that I mean: on a system where the blade stop is not shouldered (and the stop itself is nominally the same thickness as the blade + its washers), you are pinching the handle liners tighter as you tighten the screws holding that stop in place. This is not ideal, since the screws holding the stop in place become themselves an adjustment point for blade play (because of their relative closeness to the pivot).
The revised system, since there are no longer screws to (potentially) load the pivot, ensures that all lateral load on that pivot comes from the pivot assembly (screws, bearing, liners, washers) itself.
In short: to adjust your Military, bolt the handle screws to appropriate torque, then adjust the pivot to its sweet spot (the point at which you are happy with the trade off between ease of opening and side-to-side blade wiggle when opened). If you're cranking down on the pivot, well, of course it's gonna get tight!
As far as Military vs. Native for flick-ability: don't confuse lock interference with pivot adjustment -- they are very different mechanisms when it comes to opening and closing. If your Military feels like a Native when you open it, you probably have the pivot over tightened.