Question about using oil or grease

DRK

Joined
Oct 10, 2012
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Hi I just disassembled my CRK Sebenza 21 for the first time with great success, really made me appreciate the quality of the knife, connected me to the product any more and I am a little OCD so now I can sleep at night knowing everything is spick and span.

My question is do you only use grease on all parts, pivot, washers, detent etc. ? I didn't have any CRK grease so I used a high quality Teflon grease sparingly. When I put the knife back together it was very smooth but in comparison, I took a part and Emerson and I used a Teflon dry lube that is much less viscous (more like oil) and the knife is like glass.

As I said the knife is clean and very smooth but it still requires more force to deploy the blade.

Thanks in advance.

Dwayne
 
When I re-assemble mine, I just lube the insides of the bronze washers that contact the blade. I also put some on the small groove that in in the center of the blade pivot hole. Some on the detent can help also, but its not a must.
 
I actually just successfully disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled one of my CRK's for the first time this morning as well. I searched for 'cleaning a Sebenza' on YouTube and watched the first one, a shade under 10 minutes and he did a 25 (I cleaned a large 21) but I followed the same steps he did in the video and my carbon fiber 21 opens better now. (It wasn't nearly as smooth as my others, made it the perfect candidate for a first time break down. I suggest watching that video to confirm what all you should lubricate but I lubed up pretty much everything.

Perhaps using the CRK grease would have a better effect, I've read quite a few threads on types of oil and grease, and fluoridated grease wether it be CRK's or another brands seems to be held in high regards.
 
I am really wondering about using something less viscous than grease. It isn't like the knife is used in a really high or low temp setting and I would think the lower viscosity lube wound catch less fluff and debris than grease and it seems to be a lot smoother than grease.
 
The CRK grease is really the best. If you plan on keeping a sebenza for the long haul, its worth getting a tube. The new ones even come with a small tube of it. I still have the syringe style that I bought years ago and its still over half full. A little goes a long way. I have went about a year on an edc large regular that I have had before it got tighter and you could just "feel" it needed a good cleaning and relube. If you wash it with soap and water in the sink, you will have to do it a lot sooner.
 
Crk's grease has the best combination of lubrication and protection...why not trust the company that designed and made your knife?
 
What they wrote. If you actually have OCD about the knife, you'll use the grease the maker recommends. ;) :thumbup:

The tolerances are tight enough that unless you over-lube there won't be any grit-catching with grease on a Sebenza.
 
The lower the viscosity the more the lube tends to "creep" out from the washers and collect lint. While I use the CRK lube, I would expect any similar grease (like many gun greases) would work as well.

As for the amount of force required to open the blade, I think CRK's tolerances have more to do with the ease of opening than the viscosity of the lubricant.
 
The lower the viscosity the more the lube tends to "creep" out from the washers and collect lint. While I use the CRK lube, I would expect any similar grease (like many gun greases) would work as well.

Thank you for answering my question and the information. Makes sense that a less viscous lube would creep out as you say. I was also wondering about dry lube, but doesn't sound like this would work the best for this knife. My knife opens smoothly now with the Teflon grease that I used but I will pick up some fluorinated grease and use that the next time I clean it.
 
One note - it pays to make sure you don't get any grease (or oil, if that's what you're using) on the lock bar face and the blade tang. The lock works better and will last longer (and stay much cleaner) without any lube on those two surfaces.
 
One note - it pays to make sure you don't get any grease (or oil, if that's what you're using) on the lock bar face and the blade tang. The lock works better and will last longer (and stay much cleaner) without any lube on those two surfaces.

Agreed! I put perhaps six "dots" of lube on the blade side of each washer and another couple of dots on the outside of the pivot bushing.

Think about it. Even if you leave the knife dry, how many openings and closing would it take to actually wear on steel and titanium?
 
My knife opens smoothly now with the Teflon grease that I used but I will pick up some fluorinated grease and use that the next time I clean it.

Teflon grease is a flourinated grease (polytetraflouroethylene).
 
One note - it pays to make sure you don't get any grease (or oil, if that's what you're using) on the lock bar face and the blade tang. The lock works better and will last longer (and stay much cleaner) without any lube on those two surfaces.

Thanks JNewell, I think I adhered to this. I cleaned off the tang and the lock bar face, I added a little pencil lead to the lockbar face. I put a small amount of lube on the detent ball and on its path. I tried to use it very sparingly, hopefully I didn't over due it. I could see that little CRK applicator being handy I just used a tooth pick to apply it.
 
Sounds perfect! I love the little CRK syringes. I've kept the old ones and refill them. Lube goes a really long way in those things. :thumbup:
 
JNewell, the CRK instructions on cleaning your Sebenza say to lubricate "the tang where the lock bar normally engages."
 
JNewell, the CRK instructions on cleaning your Sebenza say to lubricate "the tang where the lock bar normally engages."

Well-spotted - but I still wouldn't do it! But I'm not CRK. :D It will collect grit and other material that will result in less smooth lock operation and could easily increase wear.
 
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