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Question and Answers, Please
- Thread starter Tomcatf14
- Start date
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,196
1. Use masking tape on the spine so the aligner does not move around.
2. Place the clamp as near to the middle of the blade as you can.
3. Follow the directions.
4. Use VERY!!! light pressure.
5. When holding the stone extend your index finger over the rod and hold it down, you don't want the guide rod to move up and down in the slot it will change the angle. Side to side is ok though.
6. start with your coarsest grit and set the new bevel on your blade completely before moving to the next stone.
7.DO NOT let the stone drop off at the tip, stop at the tip lift off and reset to the choil (blade section nearest handle)
8. Get the EEF 8000 mesh hone if you do not have it.
9. Let the stone do the work, the less pressure you use the better the finish will be.
10. Work at a slow pace, no need to rush.
2. Place the clamp as near to the middle of the blade as you can.
3. Follow the directions.
4. Use VERY!!! light pressure.
5. When holding the stone extend your index finger over the rod and hold it down, you don't want the guide rod to move up and down in the slot it will change the angle. Side to side is ok though.
6. start with your coarsest grit and set the new bevel on your blade completely before moving to the next stone.
7.DO NOT let the stone drop off at the tip, stop at the tip lift off and reset to the choil (blade section nearest handle)
8. Get the EEF 8000 mesh hone if you do not have it.
9. Let the stone do the work, the less pressure you use the better the finish will be.
10. Work at a slow pace, no need to rush.
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2009
- Messages
- 1,711
I haven't had mine for long, but a couple of things I have thought of:
Make a note of the setting used on a knife - that way you can do a touch up with a fine stone later knowing that you will be sharpening at the right angle.
The light pressure is even more important the finer you go - you should be doing less strokes before switching sides and using less pressure as you go finer - the less burr the better.
Once you have finished a piece of leather with green compound is a good way to finish the edge. I get the knife sharp, then strop and it feels even sharper.
You will get black powder on the stones and on the blade, it will wipe off but be careful wiping the blade - that sucker should be VERY sharp if you are doing everything right. (my little finger has healed up nicely since it got bit by an Opinel, but I am keen to avoid a repeat - I still cringe when I think about it)
Lastly:
Read through post #2 a few times and think about what knifenut1013 is saying - he has a lot of experience and knows what he is talking about.
Make a note of the setting used on a knife - that way you can do a touch up with a fine stone later knowing that you will be sharpening at the right angle.
The light pressure is even more important the finer you go - you should be doing less strokes before switching sides and using less pressure as you go finer - the less burr the better.
Once you have finished a piece of leather with green compound is a good way to finish the edge. I get the knife sharp, then strop and it feels even sharper.
You will get black powder on the stones and on the blade, it will wipe off but be careful wiping the blade - that sucker should be VERY sharp if you are doing everything right. (my little finger has healed up nicely since it got bit by an Opinel, but I am keen to avoid a repeat - I still cringe when I think about it)
Lastly:
Read through post #2 a few times and think about what knifenut1013 is saying - he has a lot of experience and knows what he is talking about.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,196
Good in thought but hard in reality. Get the clamp to the near location of its last use then when you tighten down the clamp stop a turn short of how tight you had it the last time (note: you should tighten it as much as you can). Mark the edge with a sharpie and take a stroke with your fine stone to judge the contact point. Tighten slowly making strokes with the stone in between until you make even contact with the edge and with a single stroke can almost completely remove the sharpie from the edge.
As for settings, 5 if your going to abuse it and its a softer steel, 6 for everything else.