Question before I order this sharpener...

That should do fine, provided your freehand technique is good, or at least consistent. it'll maintain a working edge, which for most people is more than good enough.
 
The only reason to use a rod is for curved blades, and portability.

The Norton benchstone will do 90% of what you need. As time goes on you may want some fine and ultra fine ceramics to kick it up a notch, and if you're going to re-profile a high alloy blade then a large course grit diamond benchstone is real handy.

Otherwise, you're good to go.
 
I'd go with the norton Sic stone instead, It will make sharpening steels like S30V easier because its a harder abrasive. Add in a spyderco UF sharpmaker rod for microbevels and you will be able to make all your knives razor sharp.
 
ive been known to give them a lick on 2500 grit to polish the edge as well. a semi convex you might say.

fried
 
I've had one of those stones since 1975. I still use it. I've tried some diamond stones and Washita stoned, but I still use the Norton. I just recently picked up a Spyderco ceramic stone (fine) to finish the edge on some of my pocket knives. Its like the icing on the cake for me. The Norton can and will do an adequate job for me. I use WD 40 on it.

It will easily take care of the Henckles and SAKs, the SV30 will take a little more patience. I can sharpen my Mini Dejavoo and Sage I with it (both SV30).

Like Joshua said, it'll probably meet 90% of all your needs.

Ric
 
That should do fine, provided your freehand technique is good, or at least consistent. it'll maintain a working edge, which for most people is more than good enough.

That isn't a product I would purchase.

Spend a little more ($30 to $50) on a good Smith's diamond system or Lansky stone set. You can thank me later. :)
 
Cultivate, the stone in question is of higher quality than you know and one I would easily suggest over the products you have listed.

Smith's diamonds are bottom of the barrel....
 
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