Not long ago I discovered the joy of convex sharpenning with an F1. I should say the no need of any special equipment (mousepad-sand paper-strop lover here) or complex mechanical skills is what I really like. I won't say it is idiot proof, but it comes very close.
Let's face it, even while being designed for completly different tasks, the F1 blade profile outcuts (for me) the RAT-7 I own. The RAT-7 doesn't chop as well as I expected either having the factory edge on it (well, I did some wood work with it, but after getting rid of the burr it developed, it shaves in some spots yet).
I read somewhere that lot of guys here thinned the edge of their RAT's. I just own a crappy two sided stone made by Aitor (too small for any serious sharpenning job), a Carborundum brand oval shaped stone, a Fishkars two rod sharpener (one of the black plastic ones with the rods making a V shape) and a Sharpmaker.
Reprofiling such a big chunk of D2 with the Sharpmaker could take forever, same goes with the two sided stone and I don't want to take my knife close to the Carborundum oval shaped stone. So... I was thiking about getting a handfull of coarse grit sandpaper (220 or lower) and convexing the damn thing (then polishing the blade up to 2000 at most).
I did this recently with a beat up Solingen knife (4" blade, stag handle, brass guard, aluminum cap) I got on ebay for little money. Some idiot took a grinder to it and it was all scratched up, edge dented, blade slightly bent (blade and handle not in line I mean) and I bet they even reprofiled it from a clip point to a spear point. It was a mess! I used this beater as a trainning before getting any sandpaper close to my beloved F1 (I didn't want to screw up) and I am very happy with what I get! Then I touched up the F1 with some more sandpaper and it is shaving sharp again.
Any input? Anyone here thinks I am about to ruin a great knife? Should I forget about reprofiling anything with my tools and get some diamond stones? I think that lifting the spine the advised 13º or so I will avoid scratching up the whole blade, maybe some tape on it to protect it while sanding?
Mikel
PD: I saw someone who convexed a brand new RC-4 here but they are made of 1095 and he used a belt grinder. I don't have the tools to do so.
Let's face it, even while being designed for completly different tasks, the F1 blade profile outcuts (for me) the RAT-7 I own. The RAT-7 doesn't chop as well as I expected either having the factory edge on it (well, I did some wood work with it, but after getting rid of the burr it developed, it shaves in some spots yet).
I read somewhere that lot of guys here thinned the edge of their RAT's. I just own a crappy two sided stone made by Aitor (too small for any serious sharpenning job), a Carborundum brand oval shaped stone, a Fishkars two rod sharpener (one of the black plastic ones with the rods making a V shape) and a Sharpmaker.
Reprofiling such a big chunk of D2 with the Sharpmaker could take forever, same goes with the two sided stone and I don't want to take my knife close to the Carborundum oval shaped stone. So... I was thiking about getting a handfull of coarse grit sandpaper (220 or lower) and convexing the damn thing (then polishing the blade up to 2000 at most).
I did this recently with a beat up Solingen knife (4" blade, stag handle, brass guard, aluminum cap) I got on ebay for little money. Some idiot took a grinder to it and it was all scratched up, edge dented, blade slightly bent (blade and handle not in line I mean) and I bet they even reprofiled it from a clip point to a spear point. It was a mess! I used this beater as a trainning before getting any sandpaper close to my beloved F1 (I didn't want to screw up) and I am very happy with what I get! Then I touched up the F1 with some more sandpaper and it is shaving sharp again.
Any input? Anyone here thinks I am about to ruin a great knife? Should I forget about reprofiling anything with my tools and get some diamond stones? I think that lifting the spine the advised 13º or so I will avoid scratching up the whole blade, maybe some tape on it to protect it while sanding?
Mikel
PD: I saw someone who convexed a brand new RC-4 here but they are made of 1095 and he used a belt grinder. I don't have the tools to do so.