Question - first damascus

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Sep 22, 2005
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Made my first damascus today!:cool: I used 4 layers of 15n20, one layer of 1080, and 3 layers of 1084 (just had an oddball piece of 1080 laying around the shop and couldn't resist...) Got a total of 8 layers. I cut off the welded ends, and ground down the edges, and it looks like one solid piece of steel - no gaps or unwelded spots thus far. I sanded one side smooth and was going to cut halfway through, fold it and weld it and draw it down, to create more layers. I thought that maybe, before I do that, I'd see if it's necessary. If I go ahead and forge the billet down and make a knife out of it, will it show that cool pattern when it's finished and etched? Should I combine it with another damascus billet, and do something like twist it (planning on doing 01/mild billet tomorrow afternoon or Monday). Is it necessary to fold the billet to increase overall strength of the steel? If folding it and creating more layers is the next step, do I need to stop between welds to grind the surface smooth before hot-cutting and folding and doing the next weld? I have to say, my previous attempts at damascus have flopped, and I'm stoked to have actually forged a successful billet! I also used anhydrous borax on this one, and 20 Mule Team on the previous efforts, and am wondering if that made a difference - there was almost no scale on the billet after it cooled. And what little there was, wire-brushed off easily while it was still red-hot from forging. I'm perfectly happy to fold it and weld it to create more layers, but I guess I'm wondering what the best way to go about that is - I don't want to screw up a good thing. Anybody got any advice?
 
Personally I like low layer count stuff especially if you twist it or something. The number of layers and what you do to manipulate the pattern is all up to you. As long as the welds are good it should be plenty strong.

I wasn't happy with the results I was getting using mild and high carbon steel. Replacing the mild steel with 15N20 was the ticket for me.

I'm no expert but when I fold a billet I grind the mating surfaces clean before folding.

For flux I use borax mixxed with a little salammoniac as recommended by Jim H in his book "The Pattern Welded Blade". It works but I'm sure other stuff does to.
 
You are going to experience some failures and grind some blades that the patterns will not meet your expectations. But don't fear there is a solution. I save all my pattern failures in a bad blade can then when I have six or so in the can. I will stack and reweld; square it up and give it a twist. ( Twisting is always a salvation.) You will end up with some of the prettiest patterns ever. I have learned to accept and sometimes look forward to those bad blades these days.
 
While 8 layers will create a simple pattern,it takes more to get those stunning effects.As Jim said,twisting is a great way to make more out of less.It effectively multiplies the layers may fold (no pun intended).I would fold that billet four times and twist it.That would create a 128 layer twist which should make a great blade.Don't fear the folding stages.Once the billet is welded up the first time is goes fast and (usually) without problem.
 
Bennett, I was forging today and thought I would finish off the end of a bad blade billet so you could see what you can look forward to when saving those bade patterns and twisting. Looks like I will have to make a sidekick out of this one.

badblade.jpg
 
I consider 60 to 120 to be a low layer billet. 8 layers in a finished blade isn't going to look very good. I usually start with 10 or so layers, weld and draw out to around 30'', grind clean, cut into 6 pieces, stack and reweld for 60 layers, then draw this out to 30'', cut into 6 pieces, grind, stack and weld for 360 layers. Ya gotta love power hammers :D 360 layers with 3 welding heats, this is very fast for me. When I used to cut and fold my billets I would sometimes find a flaw but no more. I use the plain old 20 Mule Team for flux.
 
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