Question For 110 Owners

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Surfguy

Joined
Feb 4, 2024
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Hello all - I recently purchased a Buck 110 (made in 2023) through the authorized Buck store on Amazon and noticed that on the scales, the transitions right before the bolsters are not completely flat. There is a downward slope in the wood about a quarter inch before the bolsters as if it was sanded/buffed so that the surface of the wood would be flush with the surface of the bolsters. Out of curiosity, I ordered another 110 and found the same thing. This is strictly cosmetic and I can only assume that at this price point for a high production knife, the fit and finish is going to vary.

My original expectation was that the scales would be completely flat from end to end, with no signs of a buffed-down transition. I guess one could get lucky and find an example where this "issue" does not occur, but it seems like this part of the variability I mentioned above.

This is mainly a matter of curiosity to help temper my expectations, so I'd be interested in knowing if you are seeing this on your 110s.
 
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I had to go get a 110 and look at it. My newest one has a bit of a transition on one side and not on the other. I can only see it when I hold it in the light just so and I can't feel it with my finger. It looks to be maybe a couple of thousands at the most. As far as I know, the buffing process is a hand operation, so I would call that within tolerances.

I hope you enjoy your new Buck. Make sure and take it outside and get it dirty, they like that.
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I believe my 2012 110 is like this a bit too.
and I only know because I've handled it a lot.
I never noticed it on any of the 110's I've gifted, and I've opened and inspected them all 1st mostly just to make sure there was no left over polishing grit in the pivot.
I remember my dads 110 being quite tight when I bought it for him a few years ago, the last time I sharpened it for him it was buttery smooth and rock solid.

I can't say they weren't at all like this, but if they were it wasn't enough for me to notice in the short time I had my hands on them.
 
Oh boy...in trouble already 😨

Here is a picture to get me off the naughty list...lol.

I have also included a photo showing the issue I described, but it's hard to really capture it. You can see the high spot near the edge of the rivets and then it is buffed down to meet the edge of the bolster.

I have to stop being such a perfectionist as the knife looks good, especially with the darker ebony scales.

https://imgur.com/YBEeejF

https://imgur.com/NdoMsGX
 
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I think that happens when they buff out the bolsters. Most aren't too bad but every now and then, someone goes a little nuts with the buffer.
 
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Surfguy said:
Oh boy...in trouble already 😨

Here is a picture to get me off the naughty list...lol.

I have also included a photo showing the issue I described, but it's hard to really capture it. You can see the high spot near the edge of the rivets and then it is buffed down to meet the edge of the bolster.

I have to stop being such a perfectionist as the knife looks good, especially with the darker ebony scales.

https://imgur.com/YBEeejF

https://imgur.com/NdoMsGX
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All of the inlays and bolsters are oversized when assembled and then blended by hand. This does cause variations in the the thickness of both the inlay and the bolsters. On other materials like Elk or Stag where the thickness is not as uniform as a slab of wood it can be more pronounced.
 
I don’t understand how the rivets still stand proud of the surface. It seems like they are added after the hafting?
 
eveled said:
I don’t understand how the rivets still stand proud of the surface. It seems like they are added after the hafting?
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I can't speak for Buck, but I use a more aggressive wheel for blending and the bolster to bring the pins down, then a buffing wheel for polishing the entire knife. Using a wheel makes it pretty easy to keep off the handle pins.
 
MT_Pokt MT_Pokt That makes sense.

The pins on my stag are on the slope from the hafting, but the pins are proud of the surface. The stag around the pins is perfectly flat.
 
Well I had to go check my 110 buck I bought back in 1986 and there's a transition on mine. I never noticed it before. It's well past the pins and not as pronounced but there. It's my second one as someone stole my first one so I can't speak for even earlier 110's. I bought the model with ebony scales and finger grooves the second time around. Thanks for starting this discussion. It has developed a beautiful reddish patina on all the brass and I think I'll pull it out of retirement and start carrying it again on excursions afield now that I remember I own it. LOL!
 
My wood scaled 110 is about 50 years old, so it doesn't count, but my new 112 just arrived today, and the scales are perfectly flat & match the bolsters.
 
Hello all - I thought I would share some observations now that I have received three 110s ordered from the Buck Authorized store on Amazon.

Knife #1: Scales excessively buffed near the bolsters and blade had excessive play when closed and some side-to-side play when open
Knife #2: Scales excessively buffed near the bolsters, blade way off center when closed, two rivet heads not flat against the scales creating gaps and sharp edges
Knife #3: Same buffing issue near the bolster transitions, one of the bolsters was buffed down to the point where the brass is visibly thinner than on the other side, blade perfectly centered with nearly no play when closed and zero play when open, much sharper edge than 1 & 2

All three: Required a lot of cleaning to remove black grit/residue

I returned the first two and am tempted to do the same with the third, as I have now seen many close-up pictures and videos of new 110s with perfect scales and none of the other issues I mentioned. Obviously, Buck is capable of producing some great knives, but all three that I received had what I consider to be flaws. If I had a local store that stocks Buck knives, I would go that route so I can see the knife before purchasing it. Perhaps I should try ordering directly from Buck, Cabelas or another similar retailer for comparison purposes.

My question: Is it unrealistic for me to expect a higher level of workmanship and more consistent QC on a $65 mass-produced knife? I only ask because there seem to be perfect examples of the 110 out there and my thinking is that a US-made knife from a company that takes pride in its products should be better than what I am seeing. Maybe I'm obsessing about this too much and should just overlook the cosmetic issues, as there is nothing on knife #3 that affects the intended function. If the scales and bolsters are blended by hand, perhaps these issues are to be expected on the 110. Buck knives alluded to this in their response above. It's just the luck of the draw if you happen to get a perfect specimen.
 
I don't think it's too much to ask expecting the same quality as Buck knives were in the past. Side to side play, off center blade with gaps and sharp edges around rived heads aren't acceptable on any knife let alone from a brand like Buck. Black/Grit residue is unacceptable as well in my opinion. It sounds like the first two should have been rejected at the factory.
I do know one thing for sure...................I'm sure going to make sure someone doesn't steal the one I have now (a guy walking by snagged it off my car fender while I was leaning way into the engine compartment) if quality control at Buck has slipped to this point!
Unfortunately this seems to be indicative of the age we now live in. Poor workmanship and quality control on items that have historically been quality items. It seems just about anything one buys nowdays is shoddy compared to the same item just a few years ago unless one wants to spend way too much money.
Just my 2 cents.
 
I prefer the 110s and 112s the way they are, quality tools at a price that I can afford. Greater attention to detail would come at a greater labor cost. For some people, that would be worth it. I, for one, like my Bucks when they show some wear from honest work. Just my opinion, offered free of charge, as usual.
 
Zornhau said:
I prefer the 110s and 112s the way they are, quality tools at a price that I can afford. Greater attention to detail would come at a greater labor cost. For some people, that would be worth it. I, for one, like my Bucks when they show some wear from honest work. Just my opinion, offered free of charge, as usual.
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I hear you, but I want that wear to come from me, not the factory. Also, I doubt that a little extra effort would add that much to the cost, if any. For example, buffing across the grain on a scale just seems careless to me and ruins an otherwise beautiful piece of ebony.
 
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