question for chiro75

B

bartblade

Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
344
i was thinking about your temper lines the other day and was wondering if you ever do something different than the waves on you line. i was thinking smething like using a jig saw blade and mushing it in the putty at the edges to give it a saw blade look instead of just wavey lines. well just a thought not to affend i like the temperlines you do and was just wondering if you think it would give the desired effect.



thanks, DALE
 
I actually prefer a slightly less wavy hamon to one with really distinct waves, but the people who buy my knives tend to favor the wavier ones more, so that's what I do more often than not. If you go to my gallery page (http://www.chiro75knives.com/gallery/gallery.html) take a look at all of the different knives and you'll see some "less groomed" hamon in the mix.
 
The results most likely won't look like a jigsaw pattern but you might get some ashi out of it.
 
You really need to delve into the processes that are happening during a Japanese style heat-treat.

Most people think that the hamon is simply following the clay, so whatever you "paint" on there with clay is going to be the hamon that follows... This isn't the case.

I agree with Burch... you MIGHT get an ashi effect. But honestly, I don't think it's very likely to do anything.

Don't think of the clay as creating your line.

Use the actual heat-treating times and temperatures to create the hamon, and use the clay to add character to the line.

You can create hamon WITHOUT CLAY. It's the time and temps.

Clay only helps you direct the line a little.

-Nick-
 
LIke these guys said, you cannot get that much detail out of it. It's not going to follow the margins of your clay, but that will serve as a guide, somewhat. Sharp angles will most likely come out as curves.
 
i saw this knife in the blade magazine and it had a sharp saw line on the blade it was an art knife a folder if i recall correctly. it was multi colored on the blade red
yellow blue and green. do you think this was scrimshawed on the blade or a result from the temper. it really looked like it was from the temper to me.
 
I'd have to see pictures. If I had to guess, the knife you are talking about is probably totally different from what you think it is. I don't really know what the process is, but a couple knifemakers actually precision machine (I think) steel and Ti parts and fit them together, with the joint looking like a sawtooth pattern, sort of. They usually color the steel and the Ti, or the Ti and not the steel. Strider did this on a knife a few years ago, too. They may also laminate two different types of steel and soehow develop a pretty precise pattern, too. Again, I don't know exactly how that's done, so I'm sort of BS'ing a bit, but based on your description I think you're describing something that has nothing at all to do with heat treatment. If you can find a picture I'm sure someone will be able to tell you better.
 
The name Michael Walker popped into my head a second ago. I think he made an art folder called the "Zipper" or something like that that either used titanium and steel or two different steels (maybe Damascus and plain) or something like that. I think he precision cut the parts and then fit them together and colored it all. I'll bet that's the knife you're thinking of. I couldn't find a picture of one online to show you, though.
 
michael walker sounds familiar the magazine was from like 2000 or earlier. i never would have fathumed about making the top from ti and the bottom from regular tool steel thats quite a concept. man its hot here i think im going to take a dip in the pool in a while. i havent had the knowledge of etching my blade to get the
temper lines to show. do i use any kind of electric current when doing it or just dip it in for awhile and clean and neutralize and repeat if desired? i was also wondering if sulfuric acid would work instead of ferric acid. i picked up some sulfuric at oreilly's for anodizing my aluminum on my new folders im making. i still cant get the aluminum to take dye like the sites say it will. ps using ritts fabric dye just like the sites say will work. end result the parts are anodized but no color like i wanted. any sujestions on that would be helpfull too.

thanks, dale
 
I think Walker's was damascus and plain steel, or maybe two different kinds of damascus. Those guys are doing wild and crazy stuff with coloring damascus these days.

Ferric chloride or vinegar and soap are your best bets for revealing temper lines.

I don't know anything about anodizing aluminum other than the chemistry behind it. I do know that if you search for it on Google you'll get a billion websites that describe home setups, so I would try that.
 
Cool, that's the one I was thinking of. I believe it is Titanium and Damascus, or maybe two different types of Damascus. I think it is fitted together like a puzzle with really close tolerances, then under intense heat and pressure, maybe, bonded together somehow, then colored, etc as part of a "normal" finishing process.
 
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