I have seen your posts and replies on knife shapening and figure you to be an expert on the subject. i have a few Busse knives and cold steel tantos. What are the best sharpening stones for me to buy from coarse to super fine and where do I go about getting them. also where can I get the proper instruction on expert sharpening so that I don't ruin my blades. also where can I get a strop and steel and the iformation to use them properly. Thank you for any and all of your help.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
- Joined
- Jun 9, 1999
- Messages
- 4,729
I know I'm not Cliff Stamp, but I can give you a place to start looking if you'd like. The Sharpening FAQ here at http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqsharp.html has a lot of very good info for you to peruse. This should help you get an idea of the basics of sharpening; it is more important that you understand what you are trying to do while sharpening the blade than what equipment you are using IMHO. By that I mean that you can have the best system in the world but if you don't understand the fundamental concept of sharpening it probably won't perform very well for you. My sharpening skill got much better after reading this FAQ, I'm sure it will help you out as well. If Cliff doesn't notice this, feel free to e-mail me if you'd like any other suggestions on how to get started. I've been sharpening since I was about 8 years old 8 years ago, so while I'm not as good as many, I do have some experience. Good luck!
------------------
Just because I talk to myself does not make me crazy. Now, when I listen to myself, that makes me crazy.
------------------
Just because I talk to myself does not make me crazy. Now, when I listen to myself, that makes me crazy.
- Joined
- Oct 7, 1998
- Messages
- 1,838
Doing a search for sharpening, using the 'search' button in the upper right of the page, will also yield useful information.
Oh, BTW, I am not Cliff Stamp either, nor do I play him on TV.
Walt
Oh, BTW, I am not Cliff Stamp either, nor do I play him on TV.
Walt
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Ryu :
[Busse Combat and Cold Steel blades]
Japanese Waterstones are very cheap, cut quickly and only require water as a lubricant. They come in the largest selection of grits and are usually 8" long. DMT makes Diamond coated benchstones which are a direct improvement but are much more expensive. You can commonly get them in 6" and 8" lengths. There are longer versions but they are very costly. Lee Valley sells both Japanese Waterstones and DMT hones, but there are quite probably cheaper sources, shop around. Norton makes SiC and AO stones that have the advantage of being very large (12"), but may require oil as a lubricant (which is only necessary if they are presoaked, otherwise water + detergent, is far easier to deal with). They also cut slower than the DMT and Japanese waterstones and have a lower selection of grits.
After reading Joe's FAQ as suggesed above, you might want to check out the Busse Combat forum, where this topic was recently discussed, including steels and strops.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 03-19-2000).]
[Busse Combat and Cold Steel blades]
Japanese Waterstones are very cheap, cut quickly and only require water as a lubricant. They come in the largest selection of grits and are usually 8" long. DMT makes Diamond coated benchstones which are a direct improvement but are much more expensive. You can commonly get them in 6" and 8" lengths. There are longer versions but they are very costly. Lee Valley sells both Japanese Waterstones and DMT hones, but there are quite probably cheaper sources, shop around. Norton makes SiC and AO stones that have the advantage of being very large (12"), but may require oil as a lubricant (which is only necessary if they are presoaked, otherwise water + detergent, is far easier to deal with). They also cut slower than the DMT and Japanese waterstones and have a lower selection of grits.
After reading Joe's FAQ as suggesed above, you might want to check out the Busse Combat forum, where this topic was recently discussed, including steels and strops.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 03-19-2000).]
Thanks guys for all of your help. I know that anything worth doing well takes time and hard work. i don't mind a lot of study or using any amount of labor to get the job done just wanted a push in the right direction. I bought a book on sharpening by people who clame to be experts on the subject and it said that oil is a bad idea as it allows left over metal to get in the way of the blade undoing the edge work, and the only way to stop that is to clean then stone after every stroke or have a continuous flow of oil to keep the stone clean. I have not used oil in my past sharpening ventures because of that advise. I guess I was wrong. But anyway thanks and I'll begin the study ASAP.