Question for David M. (And other experts)

Old Hunter

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
9,812
I just was given an 1966 Buck 105, a family knife that belonged to my deceased cousin. It’s dull as a butter knife, but otherwise mint, and I need to put an edge on it. I’ve had great luck using a Lansky set at 25D with 1990’s era Bucks. Will that setting work well with the old blade grind? Thanks!
 
I’m no expert on these old Bucks by any stretch of the imagination...

But the 60’s fixed blades that I’ve had (mostly 118s) had more of a convex edge rather than a definitive angle. I found it easier to sharpen them on a stone by hand than anything else I’ve tried. I’d be interested in hearing about this from the gurus as well.
 
I just was given an 1966 Buck 105, a family knife that belonged to my deceased cousin. It’s dull as a butter knife, but otherwise mint, and I need to put an edge on it. I’ve had great luck using a Lansky set at 25D with 1990’s era Bucks. Will that setting work well with the old blade grind? Thanks!

I think I would send it in for the SPA service and tell them to period correct grind on it...
 
You could bring it to David's next show and let him sharpen it for free! :D
 
If sharpening a knife voids the warantee something is seriously wrong with the warantee. The Lansky will put a fine edge on it, that you'll be able to maintain easily.
 
Wouldn't that void the warranty? If it's not the correct grind and not done by Buck?
I never thought about it, interesting. I've been sharpening mine for years and figure Buck charges for SPA or sharpening anyway. For this knife, I would recommend sending to Buck like you mentioned and I would go with the period grind as well.
 
If sharpening a knife voids the warantee something is seriously wrong with the warantee. The Lansky will put a fine edge on it, that you'll be able to maintain easily.

I didn't say sharpening it, I said changing the grind...
 
Last edited:
Take a Sharpie and color the edge. That way you will be able to see if you are actually sharpening the edge and not taking metal off further back. Then, you can set up your Lansky, make a pass, and it you are not on the edge, change positions.
 
The warantee covers defects, in material. Sharpening shouldn't effect the warantee. If sharpened poorly it would be neglect which is not covered anyway. Changing the grind is user preference. As stated they charge to sharpen anyway. I doubt it effects the warantee in anyway.
 
The warantee covers defects, in material. Sharpening shouldn't effect the warantee. If sharpened poorly it would be neglect which is not covered anyway. Changing the grind is user preference. As stated they charge to sharpen anyway. I doubt it effects the warantee in anyway.

You said it in your own statement, If sharpened poorly it void the warranty... All I'm asking is if YOU change the original grind of the blade, would it still be warrantied? To me, that would be a poor sharpening job although done in a professional way. It's like when you have someone change the scales on your 110 and they aren't authorized by Buck to do so, you just voided the warranty...
 
I think we need someone from Buck to answer this specific question. I don't see it specifically mentioned in the warranty. My opinion is they would work on the knife, but it sounds like it is their discretion whether they will charge you or not for the work.

The BUCK Forever Warranty
We warranty each and every Buck knife to be free of defects in material and workmanship for the life of the knife, and we will repair or replace with a new Buck knife, at our option, any Buck knife that is defective. Buck Knives does not warrant its products against normal wear, misuse, or product modifications. Buck Knives are not intended to be used as hammers, chisels, pry bars, or screwdrivers.

If your knife was damaged due to misuse, our repair department can analyze the damage and repair it for a reasonable fee. If the knife is unable to be repaired, we will extend a one- time courtesy offer, allowing you the option to purchase a new knife for 50% off of our MSRP price listed on the website, excluding any custom knives or web specials.
 
I think we need someone from Buck to answer this specific question. I don't see it specifically mentioned in the warranty. My opinion is they would work on the knife, but it sounds like it is their discretion whether they will charge you or not for the work.

The BUCK Forever Warranty
We warranty each and every Buck knife to be free of defects in material and workmanship for the life of the knife, and we will repair or replace with a new Buck knife, at our option, any Buck knife that is defective. Buck Knives does not warrant its products against normal wear, misuse, or product modifications. Buck Knives are not intended to be used as hammers, chisels, pry bars, or screwdrivers.

If your knife was damaged due to misuse, our repair department can analyze the damage and repair it for a reasonable fee. If the knife is unable to be repaired, we will extend a one- time courtesy offer, allowing you the option to purchase a new knife for 50% off of our MSRP price listed on the website, excluding any custom knives or web specials.

I agree. What I get caught up on is the "product modification", wouldn't changing the grind be a product modification?
 
Sharpening isn’t modifying. Changing the edge angles isn’t modifying. This is a product of normal use and maintenance.

Changing the “grind”, which is changing the blade profile cross section is. If you change a flat to a hollow grind, for instance. I expect Buck to still replace the blade for what, $10?

Edge angles from a sharpener, and blade “grind” are two very different things.

Sharpen away with confidence! What you do to the blade isn’t covered under any warranty anyway...
 
I would think to get a true convex edge like the original it could only be done by hand. Does Buck really do that with SPA service or do the just approximate it with a much narrower edge?
 
Sharpening isn’t modifying. Changing the edge angles isn’t modifying. This is a product of normal use and maintenance.

Changing the “grind”, which is changing the blade profile cross section is. If you change a flat to a hollow grind, for instance. I expect Buck to still replace the blade for what, $10?

Edge angles from a sharpener, and blade “grind” are two very different things.

Sharpen away with confidence! What you do to the blade isn’t covered under any warranty anyway...

OH was talking about changing the blade grind, not just sharpening it, Buck supplies sharpeners with some models so that wouldn't make a difference.

DeSoto, I believe Jeff was asked that and I believe his response was to put it on the repair form that you want the period grind on the blade.
 
Interesting discussion gents, thanks for the side topic but warranty considerations aren't an issue here; this old knife is in well used but excellent shape, having been used until dull and then scratched up moderately in use and while attempts were made to resharpen the edge. What I was asking David, or anyone who knew, was if the 25° setting on a Lansky stone kit would replicate the original edge angle. I have three different editions of Buck Knife instructions from the 1960's and 1970's but none give an exact degree setting. I decided to follow DocT's advice and color the edge with a black magic marker and then try the blade in the Lansky holder with the Lansky coarse stone set at 25°. That angle worked as well on the old semi-hollow grind as it did on the 1998 Buck 119 I sharpened using that setting a month ago. I have more edge now than my other old Buck 105 (a 1976 model) - I have about the same amount you get on a factory Buck 110 blade. The 25° angle of the stone misses the semi-hollow grind completely, leaving it unaltered. I may send it to the Buck Spa one day but what I wanted was to keep it pretty much the way my cousin left it, but with a usable edge - I have that now (I did take out some of the scratches, but left most). He was my cousin, friend, and mentor - I plan to use the knife and then pass it on in the family eventually. Thanks, OH
 
I find it quite hard to capture the edge in a picture, but here are before and after pictures of my knife. The top shot, with box, papers, etc., is the before picture. The bottom shot laying in some roots is the after picture, you can actually follow a defined edge if you look closely. OH
Buck_105_Pathfinder_-_1966_with_box_papers.jpg

Buck_105_-_1966_after_initial_sharpening_1.jpg
 
Back
Top