Question for Edge-Pro users

Joined
Mar 7, 2000
Messages
458
One of the things (among several) that I didn't like about the Lansky system, is the zig-zag method that requires pushing the hone into the blade and along the blade, then re-orienting the hone and re-commencing the "push" on another part of the blade. Invariably, I pushed harder on one section of the blade, or covered less distance along the blade, or swiped the hone in a crescent fashion along the blade. Do you folks know what I mean? Maybe the narrowness of the hone heightened my klutziness. If I go to the Edge-Pro system, will I be subject to the same frustration? BTW, I like my old Spidy, but want to try something else...maybe the new 204.. your thoughts are welcome. (btw, I added specific questions down below... your help is always welcome.)

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[This message has been edited by Geoff in Philly (edited 05-17-2000).]
 
Geoff, I think I can speak to your question inasmuch as I too tried a wide variety of sharpening "systems" in the past, with minimal success, before discovering the Edge Pro Apex. In my estimation the Edge Pro has them all beat hands down. I have the greatest respect and admiration for the folks skilled enough to grab any old oilstone and put a hair popping edge on a blade, but I'm not there yet. In the meantime my Apex gives phenomenal results.

To address your specific concern, know that the ceramic stones in the Edge Pro system are larger than those in the Lansky system. I think you'll find that this equates to better control and smoother strokes. I will still from time to time see a burr starting to form sooner on one section of the blade, but because the blade doesn't physically get clamped down in the Edge Pro system, you can just turn the blade over and see which areas need more work. At this point it's a simple thing to merely concentrate your efforts on those sections of the blade needing more work. In this way I find it very easy to create a consistent, even burr along the entire edge of the blade before turning the blade over and working the other side. FWIW, my Edge Pro has worked equally well on ATS-34, 154CM, 1095, BG-42, CPM 420V and Beta titanium.

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Semper Fi
 
I'll second what Bronco said. I had a Lansky and I know exactly what you mean about the stone size, but I have never had a similar problem with the Apex. The stones are about 3 times wider and 2" longer than those on the Lansky, and they're much easier to control. Also, the rod system has built in 'stops' that won't allow the stone to run past the blade's edge. I don't feel that its likely that you would experience any similar problem with an Edge Pro.

When you first use it it's a little bit awkward since you are using both hands, one to hold the knife and one to work the stone, so once you flip the blade over you'll be forced to use your less dextrous hand for the more complicated task of moving the stone. But if you stay at it and sharpen 10 or 20 knives with the system it becomes second nature. I've gotten my Western hunting knife so sharp with the Edge Pro I had to go buy a new sheath today since it cut the original to shreds! Right after I finshed sharpening it I sheathed it, then, when I took it back out, it sliced about an inch down the side of the sheath. And that was with a $20 Wal-Mart special, not a $300 custom. Believe me, you won't be disapointed with the performance of any Edge Pro product and Ben Dale, the owner, is very helpful should you run into any problems.
 
You won't have any problems with the Edge Pro system! You can easily sharpen the entire blade with no problems...and what I like the most..you can do it quickly and put on the perfect edge at whatever angle you choose!
I'm one satisfied customer of the Edge Pro!!
 
I'm another very, very satisfied edgepro user. I bought the apex system with the stone upgrade and soon, well, sort of soon, had a sharper edge on a very tough ATS-34 blade (Rockwell 59-60, I think) than on any knife I had ever had in my hand.
My wife tested it against her favorite recently resharpened kitchen knife and it was to her determination exactly three times as sharp, and that was my first knife using the system.
http://www.gorge.net/business/edgepro/default.htm

Get one, get two you'll have the sharpest knives you've ever had.

Davy
 
Well, I got and EdgePro Professinal, but I have been too busy to sharpen anything with it at all (which means really busy). I will say that it is extremely well-consturcted, and the design is what us engineers like to call 'elegant simplicty.' It has no more parts than needed, and the thing is solid. After I have a chance to play with it, I expect to be able to conduct my own nuclear experiments by slicing atoms in half!

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
I've got the Pro model. It is great. Putting a V-type bevel is easy. Once you do it, maintaining it is a breeze.

I also started experimenting with creating double angle bevels (semi-convex bevels
smile.gif
).
Quite hard with EdgePro, but practically impossible by hand or Sharpmaker.

My next step will be convex bevels by using blanks with sandpapper on a rubber (or something like that) base.
biggrin.gif


It ain't cheap, but the rule "you get what you pay for" definitely applies here.

Cheers,
Kris
 
Ah Roadrunner, you saved me the effort of tracking down my old posts. Thanks for doing it and thanks for teh comments
smile.gif


Geoff, buy an EdgePro. You will not be disappointed.

Kris, I've made the rubber backed blank you were talking about and used it to sharpen the convex grind on my Busses. If you'd like to hear about my results and opinions on the effectivness of such a modification, feel free to drop me a line.


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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
thank you all... Johan, I am interseted in your Busse sharpening device as I am intent on purchasing at least one

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WOW - I'm really glad I read this post!! I went to the web page for Edge-Pro, and found out the company is right in my small home town of Hood River, Oregon!! I called Ben (the owner) and I'm going over for a live demo of the Apex sharpener! Too cool. He's going to sharpen up a knife for me (BTW, he offers to do this free for anyone on his web-page)

whooo-hoooo :-)
 
Jeegeed, Hi,
I "always" sharpen "double bevel".
Using my Edgepro Pro (for very small knives my Gatco set) and set the backbevel about 4° lower than the one used later on the sharpmaker. i.e.:
2x13°=26° total for "meatknives"
2x18°=36° total for "utility knives"
until the knife is "just sharp"
Then I set the "primary" bevel with just a few strokes on the sharpmaker at 30° resp 40°.
Of course this could also be done with the edgepro, the sharpmaker is just faster....
This allows me, as maintenance, to "steel" the edges with the white stone many, many times before I have to resharpen with a hone.
I do "steel" in the sharpmaker jig, pulling the blade along the edge at the same angle with just the lightest amount of pressure applied.
There is no word for the sharpness reached....
Happy sharpening.
smile.gif


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D.T. UTZINGER
 
Not a problem Johan; I'm probably the only person here who actually enjoys answering these sharpening threads since its one of the few things about knives I have a lot of first-hand experience with. I just don't feel comfortable giving advice about a knife or type of knife I know by reputation and second-hand experience alone. But with sharpening, I can say quite a bit since I started doing it when I was 7 or so. And Geoff, Johan's right, get the Edge Pro, you'll be glad you did.
 
Ok, I made it a point to play with the EdgePro, and am insanely happy with it. There is simply no comparison with any other sharpener I've used. With the fixed angles, I can actually see the slight variations in thickness of my BM140HS, making the meeting of the edge and the BT2-coated flats slightly wavy. At first, I thought something was wrong with my technique, then I slowly ran my finger along the flat, and sure enough there a slight irregularity in a few places. Never could get an edge accurate enough to see details like that with my sharpmaker.

Setting the double-bevel was quite easy. First I sharpened to 320 grit at the 19-degree setting, then I slapped in the 180 grit stone, adjusted to 15 degrees, and added the new bevel.

Total time was around 45 minutes, including setting it up and figuring it out. I expect that number to go down quite a lot with more practice. Just guessing, I think I could easily do a knife well in five minutes.

Big thanks to Jerry Hossom for selling me a slightly-used EdgePro Professional, without which I would still be back in the dark ages.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
It seems like there are a few E_P fans...After reading Johan's past posts and all the responses there and here, I have some questions I hope you can help with:

1)When holding the blade on the blade "table", do you lay the blade completely flat on the table or tilt it so that the Edge is parallel to the plane of the table? Johan's post mentioned that the edge should be parallel and I hoped it was that the edge should be parallel to the front edge of the table, otherwise you introduce a wobble factor.

2)is the movement/action the same as a Lansky system?

3)how do you wet the stones, running H20?

4) how do you tell when they need re-wetting?

5) can some of the intermediate grits be skipped, if so, what are the ramifications?... which would you skip?

6) have others tried the thinning bevel finnished off with a final bevel? I have done this by hand on the 203 and loved the results, I suspect they would be better on the E-P...ie, 18* thinning bevel w/ 21* final bevel.

7) what grit combo would you recommend for the method described in #6?

you all have been so helpful on this post and from what I have learned from hours of enjoyable/informative reading here. Thanks!

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1) I laid the grind on the table, as the flat on the Nimravus is almost nonexistent, as far as support goes. The angle will not be what it says it is, but that's okay, as long as it is consistent (what's the number mean, anyway? as long as you remember which marks you use, you're set).

2) Don't know about the Lansky, but the EdgePro works by pushing the stone toward the edge, while moving it along the edge. Depending on the size of the knife, you can also move the knife, and keep the stone centered. Based on the size of the Nimravus, I was just as happy to keep it still, and allow the bevel at the tip to be slightly sharper, since the difference is small.

3) I ran the stone under the faucet first, then periodically wiped it down with a paper towel that I had just run under the faucet. Less trouble than pulling the stone out all the time, and keeps it just as wet, in addition to cleaning off the loose metal.

4) Every so often. You may feel the stone start to lose its 'edge' a bit as it dries, but even if you can't do that yet, you can just wet it every several strokes. not a major problem.

5) You could skip intermediate steps (except the 600 before the tape), but why? It will be harder to sharpen, and take more time. You can skip the early grits if the knife is not incredibly dull, and the instruction manual gives guidelines (and specifically warns against using the 100 grit if not necessary).

6&7) Answered above.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
A simple technique I use to keep the stones wet and clean is to cut a small 6 inch square patch out of an old towel and keep it soaked in a small tupperware bowl or old margarine container with about a half inch of water in the bottom. After every so many strokes I just swing the arm over to the side and give the stone a few quick wipes with the saturated rag. Works great and keeps the stones nice and hydrated without having water dripping all over the place.

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Semper Fi
 
Geoff,

If you sharpen a mirror polished blade, don't forget to tape over everything but the edge you will be sharpening.

Grit from the wet stone runs down onto the table where the blade lies and can really scratch it!


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Frank Norman
Words are not deeds.
 
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