Question for experienced Mora users-

coloradowildman

coloradowildman

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Oct 28, 2009
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Not long ago I posted a review on some knives which included a Mora Allround 4" blade knife (essentially an updated Clipper 860 from what I understand) and commented that it was hard to use in carving wood because it seemed to dig in too easy.

Since posting that review I decided to give the knife a second chance and found that using just the end of the blade afforded more control.

My first question is this- is there a different technique one is supposed to use with the Mora for fine work as opposed to conventional knives without Scandi grinds? I've been fascinated with it because the quality is so high for a $16 knife and would like to explore its useability more.

My second question is this- does anyone know why these knives are so cheap for the quality of the build? Does Frosts\Mora have a philosophy of keeping prices low for the working man? The build quality on this knife is what I'd expect of a $50 knife, not one costing only $15-$16, so I find it puzzling how they do it in today's "global economy" (read: slave labor in poor countries).

Thanks,

CW
 
Control of cut depth with any blade/grind comes with time and repeated use of said blade/grind. But yes, scandi cuts deeper and can take a little getting use to before fully understanding how to control the grind type.

Why are they so cheap?

Most look like stamped blades instead of laser cut. most only have one blade grind (the scandi is the only grind on the steel stock). stick tang, very basic wood handle, low cost steel, all this does not add up to much manufacturing cost. In a factory setting I bet they crank out thousands per hour.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Control of cut depth with any blade/grind comes with time and repeated use of said blade/grind. But yes, scandi cuts deeper and can take a little getting use to before fully understanding how to control the grind type.

Why are they so cheap?

Most look like stamped blades instead of laser cut. most only have one blade grind (the scandi is the only grind on the steel stock). stick tang, very basic wood handle, low cost steel, all this does not add up to much manufacturing cost. In a factory setting I bet they crank out thousands per hour.
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Knifenut thanks for sharing that info. I have been playing with the Mora some more, doing some whittling and yes I can see that it takes some getting used to in order not to dig in. It seems to be great once you get used to how to use it properly.

As to the 12C27 Sandvik steel (and I'm no expert by any means) from what I understand is actually one of the better stainless steels out there for taking a sharp edge and holding it. My experience with the Mora so far seems to back this up (I have knives in 440C, 154CM, 1095, and H1) as it sharpens easily and seems to hold it after whittling through several large pieces of dried Lodgepole Pine. Can anyone chime in on this?
 
Another thing is they use the same handle and sheath molds for various knives in diffrent colors makes it easy when they dont have to buy expensive tooling to make a diffrent model. They also play mix and match they just started on the Bushcraft line useing the 2010 handle with diffrent blades but the same sheath in diffrent colors. I've also heard that 12C27 is easy to work with so it cuts back on expenses like grinding and polishing.
 
I used both carbon and stainless Moras, and find them great. I only lack experience with the triflex ones. 12c27 is one of the very few stainless steels I tolerate in a knife like that and probably my overall favourite stainless by now, because of how sharp I can get it and how easy it is to achieve it. Scandi sure bites deeper, it's a matter of edge geometry, and it just takes some time to understand, but that goes for all edge geometries. You cold achieve similar bite with an acute full convex grind too. Have fun with your Moras, I'm buying a couple more soon to put in different places, so I always have one available. :)

If you want to try a little thicker blade on a similar knife (plastic stamped handles and very cheap) check the Hultafors knives too. :)
 
If you like the 12c27, you'll LOVE the laminated carbon steel blades used in the specialized woodcarving line. That line features much shorter blades for better control. Ragweed Forge carries them.

As to how Mora keeps their prices down, it's simple. They put their money where it counts, in the blade and grind. Handle and sheath are kept as cheap as possible. If you don't like the handles, buy bare blades and hilt them yourself. If you don't like the sheath, and I haven't met any one who does, make or buy a sheath. There are some excellent, but pricey, sheaths available, but I get by with with very basic generic leather sheaths from Blade Matrix at about $3.50 each.
 
They are great knives and they are designed to be build inexpensively. One way that they save money is that the handle to blade "interface" is done very simply and they don't worry too much about gaps. I have never had a loose one though...never...so what they do, they do correctly and well. The tang of just about all is 3/4 to 1/2 of the way into the handle. Only the wooden #1s have a full length tang and that is secured with a little force fit clip thing.

Mora's are build to be sharp, handy, light and loose-able. I was just visiting a thread where a guy wants a good folding knive for roughly $600 :eek: I refrained from saying "why? are you nuts?"

I mean sure, who wouldn't want a $600 knife, I guess but a $600 knife is no less likely to get lost than a $15 Mora.
 
Leftoverdj said:
If you like the 12c27, you'll LOVE the laminated carbon steel blades used in the specialized woodcarving line. That line features much shorter blades for better control. Ragweed Forge carries them.

As to how Mora keeps their prices down, it's simple. They put their money where it counts, in the blade and grind. Handle and sheath are kept as cheap as possible. If you don't like the handles, buy bare blades and hilt them yourself. If you don't like the sheath, and I haven't met any one who does, make or buy a sheath. There are some excellent, but pricey, sheaths available, but I get by with with very basic generic leather sheaths from Blade Matrix at about $3.50 each.
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Leftoverdj, is this the sheath you use to fit the Mora https://www.bladematrix.tv/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=35009
 
HoosierQ said:
They are great knives and they are designed to be build inexpensively. One way that they save money is that the handle to blade "interface" is done very simply and they don't worry too much about gaps. I have never had a loose one though...never...so what they do, they do correctly and well. The tang of just about all is 3/4 to 1/2 of the way into the handle. Only the wooden #1s have a full length tang and that is secured with a little force fit clip thing.

Mora's are build to be sharp, handy, light and loose-able. I was just visiting a thread where a guy wants a good folding knive for roughly $600 :eek: I refrained from saying "why? are you nuts?"

I mean sure, who wouldn't want a $600 knife, I guess but a $600 knife is no less likely to get lost than a $15 Mora.
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I agree that the belief by some that a knife is not very useable or reliable unless it's more expensive is not based in reality. I would love to own a Randall just to have a handmade piece of history (Randall knives went to the moon!) but is a Randall that much better as a user than my Benchmade Rant? I highly doubt it having held them both. As I play with the Mora some more I am struck by the quality and feel of the knife and wish I had bought one sooner. My problem now is that I have three excellent and affordable bush knives (Ontario SP2 Air Force, Benchmade 10502 Rant, and the Mora Allround) and can't decide which one I want to use as my primary. They are all great knives, with the Mora having the obvious weight advantage. The Allround has a slightly thicker blade than the Clippers which should make an already tough knife even tougher. Decisions decisions:)
 
coloradowildman said:
The Allround has a slightly thicker blade than the Clippers which should make an already tough knife even tougher. Decisions decisions:)
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The Allround's tang goes all the way through the handle excepting the last inch, which is another advantage over the Clipper.
 
I'd say the SP and mora would be a good combo then later on replace the SP with a big choppa :)
 
Yup, Colorado. That's the sheath. They benefit from a generous application of neatsfoot oil and one of these days I'll bother to tack the keeper in place, but they are a perfect fit for the 740, 760, and 760. They are a little long but work fine for a 640, and a couple of bare blades I hilted myself. Can't tell you about the other models because the 700 series suits me.
 
knifenut1013 said:
I'd say the SP and mora would be a good combo then later on replace the SP with a big choppa :)
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Hey knifenut, in the warmer months I always carry a folding saw and a good fixed blade here in the Rockies. Weight becomes a big factor when you backpack miles into the Rocky Mountains, at times going up very steep trails for hours. The saw I carry is an $8 Coughlin Sierra Saw with a 7" blade which works incredibly well and only weighs 5 ounces. I've sawed small dead trees in half with that thing without a flinch:) I'm unstoppable with this combo as I can split logs ala Ray Mears by sawing halfway through one and then smashing it against a rock http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcRYSFqjLgY

In the winter when I snowshoe backpack I carry either my Bushman or the Ontario SP2 along with the saw and a Buck Camp hatchet. I also have a Cold Steel Special Forces shovel that I carry sometimes as it will outchop my hatchet but is a bit heavy to carry. Of course, I never leave for the wilderness without my trusty Victorinox Swiss Camp as well.
 
Leftoverdj said:
Yup, Colorado. That's the sheath. They benefit from a generous application of neatsfoot oil and one of these days I'll bother to tack the keeper in place, but they are a perfect fit for the 740, 760, and 760. They are a little long but work fine for a 640, and a couple of bare blades I hilted myself. Can't tell you about the other models because the 700 series suits me.
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Leftover DJ I noticed you said "760" twice. Did you mean the Mora Clipper 860 the second time? I'm guessing the Allround would be almost identical in its dimensions to the Clipper 860 (I believe the 860 has a 4" blade like the Allround?).

The plastic sheath on the Allround is not too bad actually (be good for fishing especially). I would definitely prefer a leather sheath though and this might do the trick on the cheap.
 
Meant 780 for one of the 760s. I've never had a Clipper, but should work on them, as well. It'll be fine as far as the blade is concerned. The possible trouble spot is the keeper. It's exactly the right length for the handles on the 700 series. It will not work on a fatter handle, and I have no way to check diameter on a Clipper or Allround. Should not be too hard to rig another keeper if you must.
 
One thing that makes the Mora knives so cheap is the volumes they produce.
I know the Moras are getting very popular in the US, but the price (15 USD) is about three times more than the price in Sweden. One reason they volumes are so high is the very low price and the fact that you rarely sharpen a Mora. First you make fine cuts with it, then you cut board and cable with it and pry something and finally it ends up in the junk pile and take a new.
Exactly everyone in Sweden has at least one Mora knife somewhere. That alone makes nine million knives :) Because they can be found everywhere you need one you rarely see people carrying knives when working on farms. If there is something that needs to be cut you will most likely find a knife there already.
 
Funny. Just yesterday I was sitting on a bank fishing and playing with knives. I had a custom JK sharpened to hair popping , a Bear and Sons skinner ,also freshly sharpened and two Moras ,a clipper and viking, neither sharp enough to shave hair.I needed to make some rod holders . The Moras easily out whittled the competition. For what I use a knife for, a 10 dollar Mora is all that is needed.
 
I have six different Moras. Two are laminated just for woodcarving, and the other four carbon blades ranging from 3.5 to 6 in. They are great working knives and get used for very various tasks, from kitchen to field work. I agree that theyy are incredible knives for the price.
 
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