Question for Joe Talmadge???

S

starchaser

Joined
Oct 14, 2000
Messages
98
Hi Joe,

I would have emailed you, but I thought this post might help other forumites like myself. I am a novice when it comes to sharpening and have been looking to purchase a sharpening system. I have read many of your posts and FAQ on sharpening which have been very insightful.

When I first started looking it was very confusing since there seems to be as many different opinions as there are sharpening systems and everyone loves their particular system. However as you said in one of your post they all seem to work well, but you must have proper technique.

Well, after reading all of your great tips any many different post I have decided to go with your fave sharpening system since it made the most sense to me. So before whipping out my credit card I wanted to make sure I have it all down correctly.
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1) Sharpmaker 204
2) DMT x-coarse 6"x2" diamond hone
3) Razor Edge folding steel (Raz-R-Steel)
4) Razor Edge video (do you recommend the video over the book if I were just to get one or do I need both)?
5) Question-when reprofiling a benchmade for instance with the DMT x-coarse hone leaned against the flat of the stick, do you go straight to the medium stone on the Sharpmaker after that and then to the white stone? Also how do you know when to go to each successive stone?

Do I need anything else Joe? Is there anything else I should know that may help me get started sharpening my own knives correctly? I will be sharpening mostly small folders (my fave right now is the Osborne 940).

Thanks so much,
starchaser
 
1) Sharpmaker 204
2) DMT x-coarse 6"x2" diamond hone
3) Razor Edge folding steel (Raz-R-Steel)
4) Razor Edge video (do you recommend the video over the book if I
were just to get one or do I need both)?
Click to expand...

Hi Starchaser,

Well, you have the list that's the right answer for me, there are obviously other right answers. For example, there are plenty of folks who will say the right list is:

1) Edge Pro Apex
2) Edge Pro Apex
...
6) Edge Pro Apex

But you have my list. What might I want in addition? You might consider one or more of:

1. Strop. A strop is useful for a couple reasons. One, if you strop for a short time, it could finish off what's left of the burr. And two, if you strop for a longer time, you can get an incredible razor-polish finish. I personally favor rougher edges over razor-polished ones for general use, but a razor polished edge is worth trying out so you can make your own decision. I use the kind of strop that's a piece of leather glued onto a wooden paddle, which I've had very good luck with for folders.

2. DMT x-fine stone. Lean this up against the 204, just like you did the x-coarse. Like the strop, the x-fine stone can really razor polish the edge.

5) Question-when reprofiling a benchmade for instance with the
DMT x-coarse hone leaned against the flat of the stick, do you go
straight to the medium stone on the Sharpmaker after that and then
to the white stone? Also how do you know when to go to each
successive stone?
Click to expand...

Remember, the point of the x-coarse hone is for re-profiling. You will typically use it once on a knife, then just go straight to the medium spyderco stone after that. For reprofiling, I use the magic marker trick heavily to see how close I'm getting to the edge. Typically when I'm so close the magic marker is gone -- whether or not a burr has formed yet -- I then switch right to the medium spyderco hone. At this point, even if there's no burr, the bevel is close enough that the medium spyderco hone should raise a burr pretty quick. After that, I just follow the directions in the FAQ -- raise a burr on the opposite side, then stroke alternating sides between strokes, then down to the fine hone, alternating strokes and easing up on the pressure as I go. When all the scratch marks from the medium hone are gone, I move the fine hones into the 20-degree slots, and take a 2-3 light strokes per side to finish off the burr. Then possibly a very short stropping (or perhaps I strop it on my jeans), or perhaps back to the medium hone for a few more light strokes to rough things back up.

I've really come to depend on the magic marker trick to help me track my progress, and help me stay patient and avoid frustration. Otherwise, especially beginners tend to feel like they're not getting anywhere, when in fact they're probably making steady progress of getting the bevel all the way to the edge.

Good luck!

Joe
 
Joe,

I would just like to thank you for all of the excellent advise you have given to us regarding sharpening and many other things here on the Forums. I imagine there are many of us like me who have befefitted greatly from your advise and just never needed to ask or thought to mention it. Keep it up!

------------------
Jason aka medusaoblongata
-----------------------
"I have often laughed at the weaklings who call themselves kind because they have no claws"

- Zarathustra
 
Hi Joe,

Thanks for being so gracious and spending the time to explain everything for me. I want you to know that I really appreciate it. I will definitely use the magic marker trick!

Question: When you are re-profiling the blade with the DMT x-coarse hone for the first time, are you working on just one side of the blade or are you alternating on each side?

Now I know when the magic marker is gone I will switch to the medium Spyderco stone. However I just want to be clear on when to change from the medium stone to the fine Spyderco stone and how long to stay on the fine stone (i.e. know when I am finished).
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If I understand you correctly are you saying that the scratch marks from using the medium hone will eventually be gone after raising the burr and so many strokes on alternating sides and that is how you know to switch to the Spyderco fine hones for 2-3 light strokes per side to finish off the burr? Then would I finish with several strokes on either the DMT x-fine hone or the strop if I wanted that mirror finish you are talking about?

Also, should I forget the Razor Edge book since I have read and can rely on the FAQ on sharpening and just get the video or do I even need the video?

Thanks again for all your help and the added suggestions about stropping and the DMT x-fine stone. BTW, where do I get the strop like you have?

Have a great day!
smile.gif


Thanks,
starchaser
 
Thanks guys!

starchaser: alternating sides is for grinding off the burr. If you're not grinding off a burr, no reason to alternate sides.

Well, that isn't quite true. If you're doing a major reprofiling job, you're not going to want to grind one side for 20 minutes straight, because you'll end up with lopsided edge bevels. That's really no big deal, but lots of people don't like 'em. So, when reprofiling, switch sides every few minutes to keep the thinning bevels even.

As far as when you switch to the next finer stone, it's when the scratch marks from the previous stone are gone. Don't be obsessive with this -- your biggest challenge as a beginner is grinding off the burr, that's what you should be concentrating on.

Get the razor edge book, it has pics that are nice. Just remember, there's a bunch of things I don't agree with Juranitch on. So you can try out his way and mine and see which works better for you.

ski posted about knifecenter, in fact I think they have the exact paddle strop I have, leather on one side and fine black arkansas stone on the other (I don't use the stone).

Joe

 
Thanks Joe,

Just to make sure, are you saying I would be better off getting the Razor Edge book instead of the video if I were to get just one of them?

Thanks again,
starchaser
 
Starchaser -- No, I'm saying get both! If you were to buy only one, I'd lean towards the video I guess, nothing like seeing things actually get done in realtime.

Joe
 
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