Question for people who sharpen by hand

Matthewd

Chief Gadget Officer
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Aug 25, 2011
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for 3-4" blades, do you prefer to take the blade to the stone, or the stone to the blade?
 
It really depends. I do both. A lot depends on the size of each, relative to one another. Width of the hone, relative to the length of the blade, makes a difference. For me, narrower hones are often easier to 'take to the blade', with the blade being braced or held in a fixed position. Very easy to focus on narrow sections of a blade this way, such as with the tip and heel, which almost always need 'extra attention.' On the other hand, even with a 'small' credit card sharpener, it's wider area usually is conducive to laying it flat, and moving the blade across it. With this style of hone, being very thin, it's a bit safer too. A little too easy to cut yourself, trying to move & control a thin & short hone, held by the tips of your fingers.

Hones like DMT's Dia-Folds, with their built-in handles, can be used very effectively either way. It's one reason I like these ones a lot; they were designed very intuitively, to accommodate the different styles & preferences of users. Can use it like a file on wood, with the blade under the hone, or you can brace the end against a bench or table, and use it more 'conventionally', drawing the blade across it. I still experiment with different holds on mine, and find reason to like it, no matter which way (hone-on-blade, or blade-on-hone, both right and left-handed).

And obviously, much larger hones are almost always easier to use, and more effective, when laid steady on a bench.
 
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Aside from using a puck-type of stone on my axes and a ditch bank knife, I always bring the knife to the stone. I even glued some sanding belts to brass plates that are about 19" long so I can do machetes the same way I do my knives. I have a tough time holding a clean bevel when I bring the stone to the knife. Only other exception is on the rare occasions I do serrations - in that case I put the knife in a padded vice and use a diamond stick.
 
Is this a philosophical question? I generally bring the hone and the blade together;)

I almost always lay the hones on a stationary surface (or reasonably when I put the hones on my thigh or in my left hand).
 
If I'm just re-sharpening and keeping the same bevel angles I'll take the knife to the stone.

If I'm changing the bevels/grinds I usually take the stone (ok, diamond file) to the blade. I find it easier to set the angle by keeping the file flat and clamping/holding the knife at the correct angle.
 
Blade to stone. I calculate the distance I need to hold the spine above the blade given its width and cut a paper clip to that height. I set that on the stone and it serves as a visual guide. Works very well for me. It is way easier to use millimeters for this task as one usually ends up holding the edge up 7 - 9 millimeters to produce a 30 degree inclusive bevel with the knives I've got.

Quite frankly, If I have to really knock a lot of metal off of blade I use a file and then we're taking file to blade.
 
I always take the knife to the stone, with the only exceptions being very large blades like my 12 inch Ontario machete. Then I take the diamond home to the blade.
 
Preference is blade to stone. Stone firmly attached to bench. I'll sharpen stone to blade if it the only way to get it done.

Ric
 
I sometimes will move one of those paddle sharpeners around while the blade remains static. It's just such a natural movement to hold the blade straight and steady while moving the abrasive back and forth like a hand-file. I find it's only really useful if I need to remove a lot of material really fast, and I don't really use that types of sharpeners unless I'm away from a benchstone.
 
I do it like HeavyHand. Blade to stone. Except for sharpening my axe and serrated blades, its the other way around. DM
 
Diamond paddle as in DMT Diafold to the blade. Blade supported by both hands to "waterstone", (if aluminum oxide counts as waterstone).
 
I've recently began to sharpen my knives, so I'm not really the gold standard of freehand :D but I take the knife to the stone too.
:cool:
 
Interesting - most of you seem to take the blade to the stone. With my "regular" sized stones (8"x3") I do this, but I have a few smaller stones 1"-2"x3"-4", and it definitely seems easier for me to take the stone to the blade. I also seem to be able to hold a more consistent angle when doing this, but more of the stroke seems to be parallel to the edge rather than perpendicular, or into the edge.
Any more thoughts?
 
Possibly the most consistent way to maintain a bevel angle that I've tried is to go in a circular motion - either bringing the stone to the axe, or the knife to the stone. I'm not a fan of the edge this method produces, and to remove the burr I have to go in a linear mode anyway, so I don't normally use it. Generally I move the edge at a 30 - 40 degree angle to the direction of the stroke, in a back and forth motion. Thia puts more of the bevel on the stone at any given time and IMO increases feedback.
 
If the stone has a width equal to or greater than 1.5 times the width of the blade, then I do blade to stone.

If the stone has a width less than 1.5 times the width of the blade, then I do stone to blade.
 
I often do both at the same time, stone in right hand and knife in left (I'm a lefty) and then move both stone and knife.
 
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