Question for slip joint makers and repairers

[4Mica]

First, the question (and thank you in advance for any answers):

What do you use to peen blade pivot pins?

Second, some background:

I have a Case 63032 medium stockman that had some space between the liners and the blades were a little looser than I like. So I put it between some leather gloves on the anvil and whacked it with a rubber mallet. The spaces disappeared and the blades are less loose and the walk and talk is still fine. Of course the pivot pins are now proud and I know for the fix to be permanent I need to peen the pins and then sand the bolsters. I figured I could file down a nail punch until it was just bigger than the pins and use that. What do you guys think, would that work well? Also, if you could share how you might or do deal with this it would be much appreciated.

 

[John L]

The best thing to use is a small ball pein hammer. Some people like the ball end and others like the flat end. Begin peining lightly and check every coupls of bwhacks to check that you are not freezing the blade up. It is quite easy actually.

 

[4Mica]

The best thing to use is a small ball pein hammer. Some people like the ball end and others like the flat end. Begin peining lightly and check every coupls of bwhacks to check that you are not freezing the blade up. It is quite easy actually.

If I am not very good at aiming the hammer would I run the risk of dinging up the bolster pretty bad, I was thinking that with a punch of some kind I would have better control 'cause I definitely ain't no Tony Bose.

 

[WValtakis]

I find the lightest hammer I have, preferably a slightly convex face and choke way up on the handle. I back it up on some form of anvil and use light taps, it takes longer but there's less chance of over peening and missed strikes.

~Chip

 

[hoopster]

I would think with a punch you run a greater risk of slipping off the pin and dinging your bolster. With a hammer, you shouldn't hit the bolster at all if your aim is even half decent.

 

[4Mica]

The punch slipping off makes sense, I hadn't thought of that. The pins are barely proud of the bolsters so it could be a little tricky but I have the perfect little ball-peen hammer at home that I inherited from my grandfather. I will give it a try tonight.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Use the flat side of the hammer. The pein side will leave more dents. The hammer I use is a 1.5 OZ. Put the blade in the half-stop position before you pein.

 

[4Mica]

Thanks everyone, the small ball-peen hammer worked well. I followed Bill's advice and put the blades at half stop and used the flat head of the hammer. Once I sanded down the pins and bolsters up to 2000 grit sand paper and then used .5 micron lapping paper the bolsters shine like new and the knife is tighter.

 

[hoopster]

Thanks everyone, the small ball-peen hammer worked well. I followed Bill's advice and put the blades at half stop and used the flat head of the hammer. Once I sanded down the pins and bolsters up to 2000 grit sand paper and then used .5 micron lapping paper the bolsters shine like new and the knife is tighter.

That's good to know. :thumbup: