Question for SMITHIES

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
I was wondering what the most popular way to hold stock is, tongs or welding a section of steel rod, say rebar, to it to use as a handle?
It looks like the welded rebar handle would allow more control but then I haven't forged anything yet.
Thanks for any advice you can share!
Michael
 
I usually work with a long piece of the steel I am forging.Even then it gets HOT.When it is time to cut it off,I switch to tongs.I like 1" box jaws,and big wolf jaws.A pair of "V" jaws is very useful ,too.
Stacy
 
Well, technically, my shop is a smithy, and I'm a smith, but hey, my shop could probably tell some cool stories if asked....

As for the stock handling question, I sue tongs almost exclusivly, but I know people who go the other way as well, welding handles onto almost everything.

The advantage of using a welded handle is the ease of use, where tongs, I feel, give me more feedback. but it's important to have a pair of tongs that fit the stock properly. I've got about 25 pair of tongs that I use ona regular basis, some more than others, but I've also got another 50-75 pair that don't get used very frequently at all, like the pair that has a stock support built into the pivot that holds 1" rectangular stock, but hey, I'll call it a collection, and retire when I sell all my tools in 30 years as "antiques" on Ebay.

Basically, you can do either, but most knife makers seem to prefer the welded handles in my experience.

Also remember, I'm a blacksmith who makes some knives, so my idea's tend to be somewhat different.

Tony
 
Hey, I just saw where your located, you should come over some time, and I'll get you swinging a hammer quick :)

Tony
 
Start out with longer stock, Then switch to tongs. Sometimes we weld the short pieces together and put the weld in the tang area.
 
Being a damascus maker, I prefer welding handles onto the billet I am working. When I put a yellow hot billet under the air hammer, I want all the control I can get. I actually use a two rod set up, meaning, instead of welding a single rod onto the billet I weld two smaller rods together. I then heat the end that will be welded to the billet, when its mallable, I slip a piece of steel between the heated
ends and hammer untill I have a jaw like opening. I then slide the piece to be worked between these jaws and weld in place. It takes a few more minutes to do it this way but it will stay in place a lot longer. You will not have to reweld as your forging progresses and your work gets thinner. After I normalize the blade,
I cut the handles off and work with the tongs. You may want to heat either end at this stage and the tongs give you that option. That stock remove thing is ok, but for atmosphere, you need a fire in the shop. What do you S.R. guys do to simulate this. Light a candle. :rolleyes: ha/ha
 
I still like to start with long stock. As I don't like gloves I keep a spray bottle of water at the forge. It not only cools the "handle" but also tells me, by boiling away, how far up the handle I want to hold. This actually came from Wayne Goddard's video recommendation.
Just what I do,
Lynn
 
Devin Thomas welds a 3-4" tang to the end and holds it with tongs.
 
Lynn said:
I still like to start with long stock. As I don't like gloves I keep a spray bottle of water at the forge. It not only cools the "handle" but also tells me, by boiling away, how far up the handle I want to hold. This actually came from Wayne Goddard's video recommendation.
Just what I do,
Lynn
Click to expand...
The spray bottle idea will work in my setup. Thanks for postsing.Fred
 
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