Does anyone here believe that batoning with a knife is faster than an axe for splitting wood? Let's assume weight of both tools are equal. Some people claim this; it just does not agree with my experience or my understanding of physics. I really wonder if people who claim batoning is faster really invested time into learning how to use an axe. What do you guys think?
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Question for the Axe forum
- Thread starter dogstar
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This really is a "how long is a rope" type question. You have to be much more specific for me to be able to answer it. What are the weight of the tools, what type and how large is the wood, do you have any physical limitations, and so on? In general, though, if you compare a small hatchet with a "camp" type knife and the wood you are splitting is of reasonable thickness, say slightly less than the length of the knife I could see the knife holding its own. If the wood is knotty as well, I would choose the knife if we were having a race.
I've seen some batoneers put rules on axe or hatchet users such as not swinging a hatchet down to the piece while holding it with the other hand because it's unsafe supposedly. Unsafe maybe for some but it's fast. I vote axe. Stick it in the wood, pound against a log and one or two whacks it's split. Batoning is for when you don't have an axe imo.
I think you have the answer right there! Nobody serious tries to split wood with a toy axe (1/2-3/4 lb?) and nobody I know of heads for the woodpile with a 4-5 lb knife.
Square_peg
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It would depend on the size of the wood to be split. Splitting kindling from straight grained wood is quick with a batoned knife. But for splitting larger wood it's no contest. The axe rules.
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I'm pretty much the same as all this. Particularly when in the cold and I want to expedite the process. My Becker BK-2 is the knife that I am the least concerned about battoning, everything else I am more careful with. This is why I have a warm spot in my dried raisin of a heart for the 2, it doubles well for me in this regard, if I want to carry just one tool.
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Indeed. There is a reason why axes and choppers reign at different region. Mind you there are just too much variables in her. Don't forget the mauls too.
We could go as deep as selection of wood handle and stock thickness for the tool in this job.
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IMO opinion if you need to baton with another stick of wood ... a good 15"-20" axe in skilled hands will beat the knife hands down on that same piece of wood. A knife and baton is probably safer for a less skilled user such as children. The only advantage I can see with a knife is when making fine kindling from straight grain wood with a heavy camp knife ... but you don't baton ... you just place the knife on top of the piece and drop the piece and the knife together on the chopping block and you'll turn out nice straight kindling in short order ... so although you are using a knife you are not truly batoning
Summary: if you must baton to split the wood ... an axe or hatchet in the hands of a "skilled" person is better ... if you are making small kindling with straight grain wood, take your pick of tools ...
Summary: if you must baton to split the wood ... an axe or hatchet in the hands of a "skilled" person is better ... if you are making small kindling with straight grain wood, take your pick of tools ...
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Batoning with a knife is certainly safer in some circumstances than swinging a hatchet. Specifically, cutting small pieces of kindling from small pieces of wood, lengthwise. With a hatchet its 'snooze you loose'. I have come close to nicking a finger when that wood has split easier than I anticipated. I'd say it is usually slower to baton though. Now, when I am cutting small pieces of kindling I use a Chinese multi tool. I have a combination hatchet, hammer, crow bar, and nail puller. I baton with a 16 oz. hammer.
Square_peg
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Safety is a legitimate concern. The hatchet is a tool who's primary function is to remove the thumbs of careless boys.
I keep a house axe next to my fireplace for making kindling. And I keep a wooden mallet there with it for batoning the small stuff. I've had a few close calls and I've drawn blood a few times. But I can still count to 10.
I keep a house axe next to my fireplace for making kindling. And I keep a wooden mallet there with it for batoning the small stuff. I've had a few close calls and I've drawn blood a few times. But I can still count to 10.
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I find batoning to be much easier and safer than using an axe. But then again, when I'm splitting wood, I'm doing smaller pieces and just enough for an occasional open flame grilling. It's more convenient to do a quick batoning versus trying to clear an area and getting a setup ready to swing an axe at small pieces of wood.
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Forgive me if I've missed it -- but I didn't see any mention on the physics of splitting wood (e.g., along the grain).
A splitting axe only has to initiate separation of the wood fibers. Then the shape of the cheeks and kinetic energy of the axe head ensures the initial separation of fibers propagates into a full split. Theoretically, the fibers are not severed. They are separated like peeling apart a piece of string cheese.
A knife, with its keener edge, is more likely to sever the wood fibers at obtuse angles as it travels the length of the log. What this means to the user is higher friction between the blade and wood, which translates into more effort required to perform the same amount of work.
Obviously, that is a simplistic view, as some effort is still required to hoist the splitting axe (or the knife baton), and the size of the splitting axe has to be suitable to the size of wood being split. For smaller splitting jobs the knife could be superior.
If I'm on the trail and only have space for one blade, I carry an 18" Wetterligns splitter! It's thin and keen enough to cut and chop, but still has cheeks suitable for splitting. It's my general-purpose axe! My personal preference when I can't avoid the compromise of carrying only one tool.
A splitting axe only has to initiate separation of the wood fibers. Then the shape of the cheeks and kinetic energy of the axe head ensures the initial separation of fibers propagates into a full split. Theoretically, the fibers are not severed. They are separated like peeling apart a piece of string cheese.
A knife, with its keener edge, is more likely to sever the wood fibers at obtuse angles as it travels the length of the log. What this means to the user is higher friction between the blade and wood, which translates into more effort required to perform the same amount of work.
Obviously, that is a simplistic view, as some effort is still required to hoist the splitting axe (or the knife baton), and the size of the splitting axe has to be suitable to the size of wood being split. For smaller splitting jobs the knife could be superior.
If I'm on the trail and only have space for one blade, I carry an 18" Wetterligns splitter! It's thin and keen enough to cut and chop, but still has cheeks suitable for splitting. It's my general-purpose axe! My personal preference when I can't avoid the compromise of carrying only one tool.