Question for the hogs

Joined
Oct 20, 2002
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How effective is stroping the symmetrical grind... should it be done every time it is used or... just when the edge is starting to fade.. or can it be done when it is really dull and be expected to come back sharp as ever?

thankyou,
Hydraulicman
 
stropping works. i use it as my final sharpening step, first on a leather, then on corrugated cardboard. i find a steeling now and then is all it takes to bring that edge back, unless seriously dulled.
v-
 
Stroping will only work on a edge that has been lightly worked, if the knife has seen hard work, a stone or other media courser than the leather will be needed.
 
randucci said:
Stroping will only work on a edge that has been lightly worked, if the knife has seen hard work, a stone or other media courser than the leather will be needed.

This is consistent with my experience as well. Unless you have some very aggressive abrasive compound on your strop. I use a double sided strop. One side has very agressive compound and the other has the finer polishing compound. I also use the mouse pad/sandpaper method for quicker resharpening jobs. I find it easier to carry in a BDU pocket or in a backpack than the strop.

I should also mention that I probably make more work for myself because I often neglect a touch up here or there and end up having to do a more serious sharpening. Preventative maintenance is not my thing I guess, that's why I like my Busse knives. :)
 
I have a wustof steel.. that is all I have.

What type would you recommend for my future busse knife?

hydraulicman
 
Hydraulicman said:
I have a wustof steel.. that is all I have.

What type would you recommend for my future busse knife?

hydraulicman
as long as it is smooth it'll work.
 
If it's not smooth, check out the HandAmerica site and be prepared to drool. They also have set-ups just for the convex grind of Busse. Lots of neat stuff and highest quality.

Rob
 
It's hard to believe that a smooth steel rod could re alighn an edge. I have used groved steels before on kitchen knives... but never on a pocket knife or large hunting knife?

Convince me this is untrue

Hydraulicman
 
Easy, the smooth steels are hardended to a higher RC than the edge of the knife. The edge gives, the steel doesn't. The edge is also much thinner than the steel.

See "The Art of Steeling" on the HandAmerica site. They give a better explanation.

Rob
 
I strop every edge I own. Mostly because I'm lazy - it's a heckuva alot easier than dragging out something else, and brings back a super-sharp edge. I use leather glued to a stick of wood and impregnated with chromium oxide (green).

Stropping won't take out edge damage, or bring back a super-dull edge (at least not very quickly). Also, if you have a burr at the edge, stropping can realign it, so that it will feel incredibly sharp for light tests (hair shaving, paper) but the metal is weak and will deform almost immediately under hard work, Then it's time to take out a stone and work the edge a bit.

A smooth steel is an excellent investment.
 
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