Question for the Sharpening Pros

R

RealKnifeUser

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Jan 11, 2014
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Hey everyone, I have a question for you. I have a Spyderco Ulize, and a ZT 0350GRN is on the way. The question I have is this: How do you guys reprofile a recurve? I have a Sharpmaker, but I use it to restore or set microbevels for the most part. What tool or tools work the best for reprofiling a recurve, in your experience?

-Ryan
 
I'm not much of a pro, but you definitely don't want flat stones to sharpen a recurve. Your sharpmaker with the point of the triangle making contact with the edge will work quite well.
 
If the medium stone isn't fast enough, you can wrap the rods with sandpaper.
 
Honestly I would wrap the rods with sandpaper as Rennd suggested unless you have something that works well with recurves. I am not an expert in this catorgory but even though I have a curved hand diamond hone and I think using the sharpmaker this way would be slower that inexpensive hone I rather suggest you use the sharpmaker if your already used to it instead of trying to learn a new skill. It takes a little while to learn a new setup to get good results generally so if you have the option to use what your used to even if it takes a little bit more time, I usually suggest going that route unless you see a lot of recurves in your future in which case a setup and skill may be beneficial.

If I remember correctly people used wet/dry sandpaper (3m makes some good stuff I hear) and wrapped it around the rod and secured it on top and bottom with tape or rubber bands and than used it as normal to reprofile. Just don't forget to use a sharpie to check your work if you aren't already doing so and good luck.
 
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You can use the edges of a waterstone to sharpen recurves--in fact, it may help to "shape" the stone for other knives since many people like to chamfer the edges of the stone.

You can also slightly tilt the knife - while keeping the angle of the blade the same - so that the blade lifts of the stone further away from your hands, which will allow you to sharpen a recurve. This will also focus more of the sharpening on the edges of the waterstone. I've reprofiled a 710 and a couple cheapos this way.
 
KME sharpening system with Hewlett JewelStick 1-2-3 diamond hone accessory. Check out YouTube video of Dean O demonstrating the JewelStick.
 
I used my Lansky set (with flat 1/2" wide hones) to do mine (ZT-0350). Not an issue, so long as one is aware the edges of the hones will be making all the contact. That means very light pressure should be used. The narrowness of the hones makes a difference; flatness won't preclude sharpening a recurve if the hones also happen to be narrow. Re-bevelling to more acute angles also tends to reduce the apparent curvature of the blade's edge, so that makes it still easier. The SM's hones are the same width across the flats (1/2"), so effectively they'll 'fit' the recurve in the same manner as the Lansky hones. Just remember -->: LIGHT PRESSURE.


David
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I really apreciate it. I think I'm going to try my Lansky system on the 0350, which I've been oogling over since I got home a little while ago, it was in the mailbox :D I also think I'm going to take a serious look at the rubber wheels since I have several bigger fixed blades along with plenty of lawn/garden tools that could use some major work.
 
RealKnifeUser said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, I really apreciate it. I think I'm going to try my Lansky system on the 0350, which I've been oogling over since I got home a little while ago, it was in the mailbox :D I also think I'm going to take a serious look at the rubber wheels since I have several bigger fixed blades along with plenty of lawn/garden tools that could use some major work.
Click to expand...

Is your Lansky a diamond set? Assuming your ZT is in a CPM steel (mine's S30V) you'll probably want it. In particular, it makes re-bevelling much easier, and edges left in normal sharpening will be much crisper, and easier to get done. Just a head's up... ;)


David
 
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