Question for you guys

Makael

Makael

Loving wife, kids and life.
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Messages
11,450
Just saw this in the General forum about Bushcraft knives.
I dont understand the finishing part. Every Busse has been perfect and needed nothing.




Busses are great... If you're keen on finishing the blank you get. Super tough knives tho, once you turn them into an actual knife.

I would recommend the knifemakers for sale area, and dont be shy about ordering something from, say, Poland... Mr Kornalski makes incredible blades for the money.

Also, from what I understand, 'upgrading' from an aurora may be difficult. I will second the Gossman sentiment, but thats pretty pricey for his smaller stuff. Best just save up and get Scott's prodigal child, the Tusker, or Big Boar Tusker if you want Gossman gear.

If you get a Busse, get one that's already been stripped and re-edged. Otherwise you will flow with salt.
 
Interesting way of asking a question - what exactly IS the question? o_O

Looks more like this to me
images
 
CataD said:
Leonardo63 Leonardo63 I'm gonna guess this is the thread: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/best-bushcraft-nowdays.1637658/

Cheers,
C.
Click to expand...
aha, Busse haters - got it ;) Similar to why I knock on the "LaFerrari" since I can't own one I use the excuse that I couldn't drive it even if I had one because it's so unreliable and there's no dealer close by to provide me service so it would basically be a waste of my sofa change to buy one :D

I didn't realize that was quoted from a post thought it was a statement
 
All knife designs are trade-offs of various qualities, and this debate just showcases how different people have different priorities. Some prefer thin and sharp (maximize short term performance) and some prefer thick and robust (maximize long term performance). I like both.
 
Makael said:
I should of quoted. I don't and haven't seen what the guy was talking about. All 5 have been perfect and exceeded my expectations.
Click to expand...
So Question - Where do you put your faith and trust? some troll in the internets - or personal experience? ;) ~ It may be true you can't carve delicate snowflakes out of cedar with your typical Busse or trim your nails <--even this is possible with the right attitude - but you can certainly remove a quarter from a deer with 1 swing of the right Busse :D :D
 
Since some fools are so keen on geometry lets talk about that. My new mountainmandu is 0.22 inch thick and the blade is 2 inches wide. So most bushcraft knives are 1 inch or less in width. Most are sabre ground and moat are at around 1/8 inch thick. Create a triangle from where their sabre ground blades actually starts to go towards the edge. Oh yeah, lets face it, those bushcraft knives are pretty obtuse compared to my chopper.
 
I'm good. I didn't know where his experience was coming from. Mine has been 100 percent positive.
 
Well to keep things honest, suggesting a Busse for the general bushcraft tasks, is somewhat off.
There may be a few, which will perform well.
And sure, most Busse Knives will get the job done.
But when wanting to make small, precise and effortless cuts in wood (which would be a typical bushcrafttype task), I tend to grab other knives.
When I know that I will be doing coarse woodwork and prepare wood for a fire or delimb logs etc. I will almost always grab one of my Busseknives.
 
I don't think i ever read Jerry talking about bushcraft like Mike Stewart does for his knives for exemple
So using a Busse for tasks the knife has not been "officially" made for, that's the buyer fault
 
Rasmus80 said:
Well to keep things honest, suggesting a Busse for the general bushcraft tasks, is somewhat off.
There may be a few, which will perform well.
And sure, most Busse Knives will get the job done.
But when wanting to make small, precise and effortless cuts in wood (which would be a typical bushcrafttype task), I tend to grab other knives.
When I know that I will be doing coarse woodwork and prepare wood for a fire or delimb logs etc. I will almost always grab one of my Busseknives.
Click to expand...

Sure, if you want honesty, then read on.
Busse makes a wide range of knives. The fact is that Busse has often made knives that would fit your category of bushcraft. Bushcraft, is a misnomer. REAL bushcraft isn't whittling wood or carving trojan horses with little knives. Bushcraft is working with natural fauna to make shelter, traps, fire etc. A larger knife will do most of that way better than the small knife. But back to your point, my Muk LE will outcut every single knife mentioned in that thread. From the factory. period. Not only that, but it will not fail, unlike so many on their list.

They mention Bark river aurora as one of the best. The aurora comes with either a convex. Not sure why anyone would want a convex grind on a small knife. But maybe I am not seeing something. It makes for the most obtuse grind you could ever have, basically a prybar. Sure, the zero type edge is very sharp, but after some wear the thickness behind the edge requires reprofiling. Scandi is better. But scandi is a tradition. Because the entire angle is the edge it behaves like a chisel. But you have to maintain that entire edge. Most people change the from scandi to normal the first time they sharpen, lol. Scandi blades are easy to make and cheap. Just ask mora. You want scandi, spend 15 bucks on a mora. A high sabre or flat grind is the best thinnest cutter save for a hollow grind, which is the thinnest of all. But lets move on to steel and heat treat. The last company who's product I would trust is bark river. I was a victim of this recently, when I ordered one. Luckily, I got my money back. Will not be making that mistake again.

As I stated earlier my mountainmandu at 0.22 inches thick, 2 inch wide flat grind has better blade geometry than most so called bushcraft knives. It also won't loose a divot of steel from the edge when being used on harder wood.

Does Busse make some obtuse blades? sure. I have a bossjack with what appears to be a convex edge that would rival a bark river. The difference is that it could easily be used as a prybar without fail.
 
For one, I haven't mentioned Bark River, Mora, convex grinds or scandigrind.
And I haven't contributed to that list of knives you mention.
So you don't have to assume that I am particular fond of either.
Problem here is, that you don't seem to be able to acknowledge that there are other knives, different to what Busse usually offers, which are more suitable at "Buchcraft-tasks".
And when choosing a narrow point of view like that, it is hard to get by it.
That said, I do like a fine convexed grind on my small knives, used for woodworking. And I much prefer convex to a scandi grind.

When I want to make easy, precise cuts in wood, I usually grab my Fiddleback Kephart, Adventuresworn Mountaineer or even my Buck 112.
Cobalt said:
Sure, if you want honesty, then read on.
Busse makes a wide range of knives. The fact is that Busse has often made knives that would fit your category of bushcraft. Bushcraft, is a misnomer. REAL bushcraft isn't whittling wood or carving trojan horses with little knives. Bushcraft is working with natural fauna to make shelter, traps, fire etc. A larger knife will do most of that way better than the small knife. But back to your point, my Muk LE will outcut every single knife mentioned in that thread. From the factory. period. Not only that, but it will not fail, unlike so many on their list.

They mention Bark river aurora as one of the best. The aurora comes with either a convex. Not sure why anyone would want a convex grind on a small knife. But maybe I am not seeing something. It makes for the most obtuse grind you could ever have, basically a prybar. Sure, the zero type edge is very sharp, but after some wear the thickness behind the edge requires reprofiling. Scandi is better. But scandi is a tradition. Because the entire angle is the edge it behaves like a chisel. But you have to maintain that entire edge. Most people change the from scandi to normal the first time they sharpen, lol. Scandi blades are easy to make and cheap. Just ask mora. You want scandi, spend 15 bucks on a mora. A high sabre or flat grind is the best thinnest cutter save for a hollow grind, which is the thinnest of all. But lets move on to steel and heat treat. The last company who's product I would trust is bark river. I was a victim of this recently, when I ordered one. Luckily, I got my money back. Will not be making that mistake again.

As I stated earlier my mountainmandu at 0.22 inches thick, 2 inch wide flat grind has better blade geometry than most so called bushcraft knives. It also won't loose a divot of steel from the edge when being used on harder wood.

Does Busse make some obtuse blades? sure. I have a bossjack with what appears to be a convex edge that would rival a bark river. The difference is that it could easily be used as a prybar without fail.
Click to expand...
 
Rasmus80 said:
For one, I haven't mentioned Bark River, Mora, convex grinds or scandigrind.
And I haven't contributed to that list of knives you mention.
So you don't have to assume that I am particular fond of either.
Problem here is, that you don't seem to be able to acknowledge that there are other knives, different to what Busse usually offers, which are more suitable at "Buchcraft-tasks".
And when choosing a narrow point of view like that, it is hard to get by it.
That said, I do like a fine convexed grind on my small knives, used for woodworking. And I much prefer convex to a scandi grind.

When I want to make easy, precise cuts in wood, I usually grab my Fiddleback Kephart, Adventuresworn Mountaineer or even my Buck 112.
Click to expand...


Make no mistake, It was directed at one specifically in that thread, not you. I do acknowledge that there are other knives. Many other knives. In Fact Gossman makes great knives. I own plenty of other brands. The point is that, instead of making disparaging comments about a brand they know nothing about they should worry about the brands they carry. Buck makes good knives by the way, well except for the hoodlum(the one with the notch on the spine that is a failure point) So please don't take my statements as an attack on your personally. I know you were not the one making the remarks.

Where we do disagree is on the type of knife to use for Bushcraft and there your point of view is way more narrow than mine. I do believe that a larger knife can do much more bushcraft than a small one. There is almost no small task I cannot do with a larger blade. But there are many larger tasks you cannot do with a smaller blade. It does not have to be a Busse. Speaking in general terms. But that is a point of disagreement and nothing to do with the ignorance spoken in that thread about Busse knives. While the serious heat treat and design issues of another known brand are wholly ignored, lol.
 
As for the issue about type of knive used for bushcraft, I too had that same mindset earlier. That I could do everything a small knife does, with a big knife.
It all comes down to what you can do comfortably.
I realise that I can't comfortably delimb a log with my Fiddleback. Same as I can't comfortably whittle out a spoon or a spatula with my Mountainmandu.
I like making my kitchenutensils myself.
So I will bring my Fiddleback to the woods. Paired with some other tool for the hard work.
That other tool may well be the Moountainmandu. Or an axe or a saw.
Or my SFNO Le, which sometimes is brougt as the only cuttingtool.
 
Rasmus80 said:
As for the issue about type of knive used for bushcraft, I too had that same mindset earlier. That I could do everything a small knife does, with a big knife.
It all comes down to what you can do comfortably.
I realise that I can't comfortably delimb a log with my Fiddleback. Same as I can't comfortably whittle out a spoon or a spatula with my Mountainmandu.
I like making my kitchenutensils myself.
So I will bring my Fiddleback to the woods. Paired with some other tool for the hard work.
That other tool may well be the Moountainmandu. Or an axe or a saw.
Or my SFNO Le, which sometimes is brougt as the only cuttingtool.
Click to expand...


I am not one to talk. A vast majority of my outings take me above the tree line. No need for a large knife up there, lol. Or hatchet. My multi tool and a small knife for cutting things is all I need the majority of the time. Also, there is so much deadfall in the forest that you can usually get by with lever breaking branches. I will always opt for the route of least energy use, :)
 
I enjoy the woods too much to leave them below me:)
Also we have no treeline here in Denmark.
Highest point of elevation is about 440ft above sea level. So when home in Denmark, I am stuck with whatever forests are left.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top