Question: Lockbacks?

[bobobama]

I recently bought a 722 Spitfire, and more recently a 110 "Smokejumper" (from SK Blades). Both knives highly recommended. However, while playing with them I noticed that upon closing the blades, they are only stopped by contact with either the lockbar spring or backspacer. It seems to me that eventually this would lead to dulling the blade edge. Is this something I should be concerned about and if so, how do you avoid it?

 

[afishhunter]

I've been carrying a Buck 110 or Schrade 7OT (Schrade's version/copy of the Buck 110) pretty much every day since 1972.
I've always just held the blade and lowered it, instead of letting it snap shut.
Never a problem with the blade hitting the lockbar or spring when you close it that way.

 

[Hickory n steel]

There's this thing on lockbacks and slipjoints called a Kick, it's that hump with a flat spot on top that sticks out from the tang area.
This kick sticks out past the plain of the knife edge and is what contacts against the lockbar when the knife is closed.
Bucks almost always have a good kick, especially the 110 which they've been making so many of for so long.

 

[bobobama]

Thanks guys- good advice. I guess I 'll just have to be more careful when closing these.

 

[Reitwagen]

Over closing on some Buck knives was recently discussed here with many people stating that it never happened to them. At this moment, I'm carrying a 112 in that can and does have contact between the blade and back spacer while being compressed in my pocket. I inserted a small piece of rubber gasket material near the point where the edge makes contact with the back spacer and the result was flawless. The rubber has a small mark from the blade edge, but it doesn't cut through. Had I thought of this 30 years ago, I could have saved myself some grumbling.

 

[David Martin]

I would have added material at the toe of the kick, to lift the blade. The blade closing on the lock bar / spacer is a rare
condition and can be addressed at either end of the blade well without much difficulty. I would first make sure it's actually
touching the lock bar. DM

 

[Reitwagen]

I would have added material at the toe of the kick, to lift the blade. The blade closing on the lock bar / spacer is a rare
condition and can be addressed at either end of the blade well without much difficulty. I would first make sure it's actually
touching the lock bar. DM

I think the OP referred to the blade coming to rest on the lock bar in a closed position. If I understand correctly, your recommendation of adding material under the kick is spot on. Your recommendation to make sure there's a problem before trying a solution is also sound advice.

Thanks guys- good advice. I guess I 'll just have to be more careful when closing these.

The solution I used is for if the blade travels past the resting stop, such as during closing, for example. If my experience isn't relevant to the thread, then I apologize for redirecting the topic.

 

[David Martin]

Reit, I think your take is relevant because we are addressing 2 different possibilities as we don't know (right now) which one
he is wanting information on. Thank you, DM

 

[eveled]

I like the idea of the itty bitty rubber Buck blade bumper.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I like the idea of the itty bitty rubber Buck blade bumper.

And a new tongue twister is born.
One for knife nuts too
this is definitely a good idea though, I've got a slipjoint I added a piece of toothpick into which works well.

 

[DocT]

The kick is supposed to prevent the blade from coming into contact with the lock bar. Usually it does. On occasion a knife will accidentally have a kick that is too low, but this is not that common. Buck has been making these knives for a long time and know how to do it.