Question on frame lock knives

[jbib]

Frame locks are generally stated as more robust than a liner lock. The reason given is the locking end is much stronger. Here's my question. Is there a breaking in period for the frame lock? Does it depend? On what? This might be a beginner question but who knows better than a bladesmith? Thanks!

 

[aareeyesee]

I'll give it a shot. :note I don't make folders and I'm only 2 years in as a hobby knife maker. The frame lock interface is thicker/stronger and is helped to be "locked in" by the act of holding the knife. I have a couple frame locks I've had to "tune" with a file for a better blade/lock interface as far as squareness at the connection. I personally won't even buy another liner lock, i hate the only one I've ever got. It's not a crappy truck stop knife and it just feels cheap to me. I actually hate it and it's on the shelf by the front door for opening boxes. Some frame locks have a secondary metal at the connection (for wear resistance) that could get out of square at the fasteners. I wouldn't think that will ever "wear in" and will have to be mechanically adjusted or filed for squareness to the interface.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I consider a frame lock a very heavy duty liner lock. It is similar to a deba vs a santoku. Both are good, one is just heavier and more robust in heavy use. I am the opposite of ARISE - I prefer a well made liner lock with lovely scales to a frame lock. There are so many things you can do to a liner lock to embellish it, but very few to do to a frame lock.

 

[Lorien]

because a frame lock type generally uses thicker material over the length of the lock bar, the lock bar itself may be considered stiffer overall- all things being equal. But the relief milled into the end of it which dictates how much actuating force is required to unlock will be around the same thickness as an equivalent liner lock. The constraint is the flexibility of the material, which has a lot to do with how much material there is. Also, there is only so much real estate available for the lock face interface, so a liner or frame lock will be roughly equivalent, dimensionally, wrt lock face real estate.

I think, personally, that it is wrong to assume that frame locking knives are 'necessarily' 'stronger' than liner locking knives. It all depends on materials, tolerances, and all the various dimensions involved. There shouldn't be much of a break in period, either. For a well designed and made folder, any wear should be quite minute and be spread out over a long period of time.

 

[jfk1110]

Most Framelocks look unfinished to me..................Gimme OD green canvas scales on A liner lock please

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Making framelocks of linerlocks will require a bit of break in time, I like to do this so the customer does not have to. This only takes a few minutes.

Detent track needs to wear in. Do this with just lock pressure or minimal extra pressure once it gets smoother. I like to add some lithium grease, wd40 or even windex to clean the track as it breaks in. This only takes a few openings.

Lock interface on frame and blade - very little wear should happen here, I find it good to add a little pencil mark on the blade and/or frame lock face to help out. You can have a knife that is somewhat rough break in quickly here if all is correct and parallel. Gently open the knife and let the lock click over slowly... repeatr 10-20 times then open it hard a few times. Give it a few taps on the spine, nothing wild here. Test it again...

Bearing Track - track gets worn in mostly on Ti side a and just a bit on blade side

I like lithium grease , wd40 or even windex for this... you mostly need to keep things clean so no grit or metal builds up.

 

[Hengelo_77]

One thing on a liner lock, while using it, dirt etc can get between the scale and liner prefenting you from being able to close it .

 

[jbib]

Most Framelocks look unfinished to me..................Gimme OD green canvas scales on A liner lock please

View attachment 2876394View attachment 2876395

That's hard to argue with.

 

[jbib]

Making framelocks of linerlocks will require a bit of break in time, I like to do this so the customer does not have to. This only takes a few minutes.

Detent track needs to wear in. Do this with just lock pressure or minimal extra pressure once it gets smoother. I like to add some lithium grease, wd40 or even windex to clean the track as it breaks in. This only takes a few openings.

Lock interface on frame and blade - very little wear should happen here, I find it good to add a little pencil mark on the blade and/or frame lock face to help out. You can have a knife that is somewhat rough break in quickly here if all is correct and parallel. Gently open the knife and let the lock click over slowly... repeatr 10-20 times then open it hard a few times. Give it a few taps on the spine, nothing wild here. Test it again...

Bearing Track - track gets worn in mostly on Ti side a and just a bit on blade side

I like lithium grease , wd40 or even windex for this... you mostly need to keep things clean so no grit or metal builds up.

You are speaking post graduate knives and I'm in grade school. Are you speaking about liner lock care? My question simply is there a break in period for frame locks? Perhaps you could give me some advice on that?

 

[jfk1110]

One thing on a liner lock, while using it, dirt etc can get between the scale and liner prefenting you from being able to close it .

I'd be using a fixed blade in that shit u ation........Always have one!

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

You are speaking post graduate knives and I'm in grade school. Are you speaking about liner lock care? My question simply is there a break in period for frame locks? Perhaps you could give me some advice on that?

No this is break in for a liner or frame lock.

Yes

That was it